The Passion Of The Crush
by Amy Covington

Sipping a glass of Tre Fratelli — Italian for “three brothers,” representing the wine’s triple grapes: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc — from the Palumbo Family Vineyards & Winery, I understand why those who visit the Temecula Valley wine region get caught up in the culture. It was more than the wine that lured and hooked me, although the wine played an important part. There is a strong sense of community and family in the region, evident when you have a conversation with any of the winemakers or owners. There is a pride and sense of accomplishment, and justifiably so. From the established to the new and boutique, all have shared losses, challenges, and successes.

Temecula Valley, due north of Escondido, is Southern California’s up-and-coming wine region, with an even more favorable climate than its more renowned northern neighbors. Through a false impression has persisted that Temecula is desert-like, the truth is that it has a micro-climate with granite soil, ideal elevation, and misty mornings followed by intense midday sun, cooling coastal breezes, and cold nights, that helps create wine with great fruit character and varietal flavor. Temecula’s soil is angled slightly higher toward the sun, creating greater solar intensity. As a result, Temecula enjoys early growing seasons from March to September. Relatively little rainfall interrupts the harvest — an important factor in wine quality.

Temecula — meaning “where the sun shines through the mist” in the Luiseño Indian language — is home to 18 vineyards, including large-scale productions like Callaway Coastal Winery, with a remarkable production of 400,000 cases a year, 14,000 cases a year at Mount Palomar, and Palumbo Vineyards & Winery with 1,500 annually. Despite Temecula’s questionable absence from public praise, its wines are winning awards, testament in itself that Temecula’s vineyards are preeminent grape producers.

Owning and running a vineyard and winery is a dream for many, and a hard, yet rewarding, reality for the few who take the risk. “It’s a passion-driven industry,” says Cane Vanderhoof, the 34-year-old owner of Miramonte Winery. “It’s like being an artist, but it takes a year to make a painting. You have a blank canvas in front of you. It really gets into your skin.”

Artisanal vintner Nick Palumbo believes it takes more than hard work and a propensity for wine making to produce a great wine. “I am a wine grower, not a wine maker,” he says. “The wine grows on the vines. If you don’t have a good grape, you don’t have a good wine. We are nothing without the vines.” He’s got the right idea; I witnessed the sale of his last case of Late Harvest Merlot. Palumbo’s love of his trade is apparent. When I stepped into the barrel room, I found him personally labeling a bottle of wine with the care and precision familiar to any artist.

The Wilson family, owners of the Wilson Creek Winery, are all too familiar with the hard work necessary to start and run a winery. Armed with only a sense of adventure and fearlessness, they bought a vineyard. There was no infrastructure whatsoever — no power, septic, phone — just grapes. Guests today encounter a sprawling property with a nostalgia-inspiring bridge leading to the estate and ever-so-popular tasting room. Gerry Wilson says they plan to expand, this after opening for business just four years ago.

This backdrop of new visions and emerging growth is balanced by the steady stream of awards and accolades for old favorites. In many ways, Callaway Coastal Winery has become synonymous with Temecula Valley wines. In terms of annual barrel production, Callaway is the benchmark of success if your goal is that lofty. Callaway not only has a wider market appeal than some of its more boutique counterparts, its wines compare to the best, with several unique and award-winning selections. Their Nebbiolo Bello, with very light strawberry and cherry aromas, is light enough to drink during the bright of day lounging by the pool, but be careful, it goes down smooth. Tour guides are extremely knowledgeable and will walk you through the entire winemaking process, from the bare vine to the finished product. If you visit during the harvest, you can even taste the juice before it’s made into wine.

Winemaking is not a hands-off line of work. “I’m out walking the vineyards, making sure the grapes are growing properly. It requires a lot of hard hours, but it’s like playing ball. It’s definitely rewarding,” says Vanderhoof. Ensuring smooth operations is just one challenge for Temecula grape growers. A few years ago, the region was struck by Pierce’s Disease (PD), which destroyed many vines in several vineyards. The region has rebounded, and continues to produce top-notch wines, but not without some loss. Peter Poole, second generation owner of Mount Palomar Winery, went from 100 acres to 18 as a result of PD. “In a strange way, it was one of the best things that happened to the region,” he says. “People from Northern California came to see what was going on. They went away with a different, more positive impression.” Mount Palomar has a long-standing reputation, dating back to 1969 and Poole’s father, John, for being the foremost experimenter in the area.

Temecula grapes have caught the attention of other vineyards. They are so good, that wineries in Northern California buy grapes grown here, although you would never know by reading a label. Temecula growers remain optimistic about public opinion. “People’s perceptions will change in time,” Vanderhoof says. Judging from the number of consumers lined up in the tasting rooms, this statement seems right on the money.

“Temecula is now coming out of its adolescence,” Vanderhoof goes on to explain, saying that when he first ventured into the winemaking side of the business, he put all of his money into the wines — leaving landscaping and interior design until later. This “wine first, aesthetics next” philosophy seems to pervade the local Temecula wine business. In fact, it can be easy to discern what stage of the industry’s business cycle a producer is in simply by a glance at the state of interior and exterior design. As for Vanderhoof, “later” is finally now, and the Miramonte tasting room is cozy and bustling with eager tasters. Every Friday night, Miramonte hosts a Flamenco night, which has become like that famous Boston bar, Cheers, of Temecula, attracting a vibrant happy hour crowd each week. It seems the next phase of growth for the region will involve solidifying the area as one with appeal for those not just with an appreciation for vines and wines, but for anyone who enjoys basking in the wine country lifestyle. The owner of South Coast Winery, Jim Carter, who entered the wine scene in 1981, is in the finishing stages of building an impressive $20 million resort and spa, which will debut this summer.

Thornton Winery, a major player in the production of award-winning sparkling wines and champagnes since its 1988 opening date, with accolades and recognition continuing to grow for their more recently introduced premium varietal still wines, offers an experience for those with sophisticated tastes — in both food and music. For the past 16 years, the winery has hosted a Champagne Jazz Concert series on the property’s outdoor fountain terrace, which typically runs from April to October. Gourmet supper packages provide a reserved table and three-course meal prepared by Thornton’s award-winning Cafe Champagne.

With all this growth, activity, and buzz, there’s definitely more than just grapes growing on the vines of Temecula.

The Temecula Valley Wine Grower’s Association is a treasure trove of information on the region’s wineries and activities. You can download an area map right from their Web site at www.temeculawines.org. There are links to all of the vineyards, and all of the tour hours are listed.