Dining Out- Excelsior Brasserie
by Paisley Wood

One of the newest additions to the La Jolla dining scene is Excelsior Brasserie. It opened late last summer and after getting off to a fantastic start, this welcome newcomer will soon make the La Jolla short list for those with persnickety palates.

Floor to ceiling windows allow diners to take full advantage of a spectacular view of the La Jolla Cove, while a gorgeous soap stone bar flanked by fabric pendant lamps and a diffused glass partition provide the interior design focal points.

The owner describes the Belgian cuisine at Excelsior as “progressive eclectic French cuisine.” The one-page menu, which is divided into soup, salad, appetizers, fish, and meat groups, offers a good variety of selections in each category.

One of my favorite things about Belgian dining is that an essential element of the cuisine is frites — French fried potatoes. Steak Frites, Mussels Frites, and Pork Cheek Frites are all house specialties at Excelsior Brasserie. Another of my favorite things is their liberal use of mayonnaise. A big mayonnaise lover, I was thrilled when I discovered that they serve mayo with their frites.

The Bisque de Homard (lobster bisque) makes for a delicious starter. Rich, silky, and accented with lovely lobster fritters, it is finished with an Armangnac-infused crème fraiche, which adds another layer of creaminess to this decadent soup.

The Salade de Brie Chaud (Brie salad) and the Salade Lyonnaise make great second courses. The latter is a brilliantly executed version of the classic French bistro standard, the poached egg salad. Fresh frisee is tossed with applewood-smoked bacon, croutons, and a bacon-balsamic vinaigrette. The salad is topped with a poached egg which adds a wonderful viscous layer, as well as causes a slight wilting of the frisee. The Brie salad is made up of Belgian endive and arugula, golden raisins, and a sweet orange-honey hazelnut vinaigrette topped with warm melted Brie — what could be better?

Moules Frites is offered as both an appetizer and an entrée, with the only difference being that the entrée version — “a volonte” — is a bottomless bowl. The fresh, plump, perfectly cooked mussels are steamed in white wine with leeks, celery, onions, and a dash of cream. They are served with frites and fabulous creamy mayonnaise — a real treat.

I thoroughly loved the Carbonade Flamande (braised pork cheeks). They are slowly cooked in a dark red Belgian beer and served falling-apart-tender in their flavorful cooking juices. They, too, are served with frites and mayonnaise. I was told that the locals plop fries and mayo on top of the dish and eat it altogether. I followed the suggestion and was awestruck at the magnificent taste.

Excelsior serves 21-day-aged prime beef. The menu offers a 10-ounce New York and a 12-ounce ribeye, both with frites and a choice of peppercorn, tarragon-hollandaise, mushroom, or blue cheese sauce. There are many strong choices for dessert, but for my money, you’ve got to try the Mousse au Chocolat, which is Belgian chocolate topped with whipped cream, raspberries, and a hot chocolate sauce.

Stunning view, beautiful interiors, delicious, well-prepared fare, and earnest service. Yes, Excelsior Brasserie lives up to its name.