Wine, Dine & Entertain - Ranch & Coast

Innfusion
With the arrival of spring, send your salivary glands into overdrive with a dash of the East and a shot of the West at Innfusion restaurant at The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe.

The extraordinary inventiveness of executive chef John Beriker makes for a remarkable dining experience filled with excitement and anticipation. The striking décor of fiery red walls and white linens is an even bolder testament to the exotic style of cooking he portrays. "Guests can opt to be seated in the main dining room as well," he says. "My food is available anywhere in the hotel." Beriker spent 15 years abroad in Asia, working as an executive chef in two major hotels as well as freestanding restaurants.

"The food in Singapore and Thailand truly inspired me," he says. "My goal here is to make people happy by offering something new, authentic, and different from anywhere else."

I often find salmon boring and tasteless. To my surprise, the curious juxtaposition of smoked salmon thinly sliced on thick and crusty pizza bread, with red onion, caper dill cream, and golden caviar is unusually captivating. With salmon being recognized as a healthy and nutritious food, low in saturated fat with an abundant source of omega-3 fatty acids, this may be the most creative way to add it to your diet. Pair with Taz Pinot Grigio 2005, Santa Barbara, for its lime aroma and creamy mouth feel.

A healthy mindset doesn’t mean sacrificing flavor. "I really believe that cooking light is the only way to go," Beriker says. His philosophy is evident, especially in the dazzling Miso Salad. This innovative mixture of bitter lettuce including endive, Lollo Rosa, and arugula is nicely outfitted for spring with a sweet and tangy dressing made with miso paste, orange juice, sesame oil, rice wine, and sesame seeds. The Miso Salad pairs nicely with Geyser Park Sauvignon Blanc, 2006, Sonoma County, which offers a refreshing grapefruit finish.

Don’t be fooled by the simple presentation of the lightly tempura-fried Blue Shrimp from the waters of Vietnam. The succulent flavors of these giant, tender, and juicy shrimp mixed with Oriental salad and piquant mirin, prove to be anything but simple, truly spoiling me for eating shrimp anywhere else. Consider pairing with Qupe Bien Nacido Cuvee, 2005, Santa Maria Valley, for structure and acidity that tastes cool, clean, and crisp.

Being of Southern Italian decent, I often favor spicy food. Don’t miss the blazing Nori Wrapped Ahi Tuna, flash-fried in tempura batter with tomato ginger salsa and Japanese mustard. The wasabi and sweet chili sauce adds even more fuel to the fire. Pair with Orchid Hills Viognier, 2005, Paseo Noblis for a taste of peach, mango, and tropical fruit that mellows out the palate.

The Rack of Lamb cooked medium-rare and Szechuan style with Chinese broccoli and coconut Pandan (a tree that grows in tropical areas of Asia) is nothing short of pure luxury. Beriker simmers the leaves with red wine and shallots for a sweet and savory sauce that drips generously over the individual chops. "My vegetable supplier says I may be the only chef in San Diego using Pandan leaves," he says. Pair with Vina Robles Syrah, 2002, Central Coast California, for a rich and smooth, vibrant berry finish.

Dessert shares equal billing with the entrees that transported my taste buds to faraway exotic lands without the expensive airfare. The light and crispy profiteroles are mini-cream puff shells bursting with a cream-filled center and garnished with fresh blackberries, raspberries, and chocolate sauce. Pair with Rutherglen Chamber Muscat, Rosewood Vineyards, for the sweetest of endings. (858/756-1131, www.theinnatrsf.com) — Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal