Not My Dad's Thanksgiving Dinner
by Terryl Gavre

I think Thanksgiving is my father’s favorite meal of the year. He loves everything from the smell of the turkey that begins wafting through the house at about ten in the morning to that late night turkey, stuffing, and cranberry sauce sandwich (with mayo and pickles) just before bedtime.

One thing that is a for-sure: he doesn’t want anyone getting fancy with his Thanksgiving feast. He likes his turkey, stuffing, and sweet potatoes prepared traditionally, with as little embellishment as possible. One year, my mother got creative and put pecans and currants in her stuffing. It was delicious but it was not a good thing. Let me just put it this way; she hasn’t strayed from grandma’s recipe since.

On the other hand, I enjoy dressing up Thanksgiving dinner every now and then. And this year I get exactly that chance because my parents are spending the holiday with my sister in Corvallis (I have them for Christmas – you know the drill).

Since this is a father-free year, I have enlisted the help of a few of my chef friends to get creative with the menu. I have asked them to tweak the traditional just a bit and come up with some relatively straightforward recipes, but with a twist.

THANKSGIVING RECIPES

Cornbread-Turkey Sausage Stuffing with Apples and Chestnuts
Paul McCabe of L’Auberge Del Mar

12 T. (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
2 1/2 c. finely chopped yellow onions
3 tart apples (Jonathan & Winesap are good), cored & chunked, not peeled
1 lb. Lightly seasoned bulk turkey sausage
3 c. coarsely crumbled cornbread
3 c. coarsely crumbled whole-wheat bread
3 c. coarsely crumbled white bread (French is preferable)
2 t. dried thyme
1 t. dried sage
salt & pepper to taste
1/2 c. chopped Italian parsley
1 1/2 c. chopped chestnuts

Melt half of the butter in a skillet. Add chopped onions and cook over medium heat until tender and lightly colored, about 25 minutes. Transfer onions and butter to a large mixing bowl.

Melt remaining butter in the same skillet. Add apple chunks and cook over high heat until lightly colored but not mushy. Transfer apples and butter to the mixing bowl.

Crumble the sausage into the skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring, until lightly browned. With a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to the mixing bowl and reserve the rendered fat.

Add remaining ingredients to the mixing bowl and combine gently. Refrigerate if not used promptly.

If you do not wish actually to stuff the bird goose or duck, you can make the stuffing greasy, spoon it into a casserole. Cover casserole and set into a large pan. Pour hot water around the casserole to come halfway up the sides. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes at 325°F, basting occasionally with cooking juices from the bird or with the reserved sausage fat if necessary.

Enough stuffing for a 20 lb turkey, to make 12 to 14 portions.

 

CANDIED YAM BREAD PUDDING | GINGER CREAM
Tina Luu, chef and instructor at The Art Institute of California-San Diego


CUSTARD MIXTURE
Yams 2 (1 1/4 lbs)
Half and Half 3 cups (26 fl.oz)
Whole Eggs 5 (7.5 oz)
Brown Sugar 1 cup (8 oz)
Cinnamon 2 teaspoons
Nutmeg 1 teaspoon
Vanilla Extract 1 teaspoon

Candied Ginger, minced 1 cup (5 oz)
Croissants, large (day-old/dry) 7 (~ 2 lbs.)

TOPPING
Brown Sugar 1/2 cup (4 oz)
Cinnamon 1 teaspoon
Pecans, Chopped, Untoasted 1.5 cup (6 oz)

METHOD Total
1. Rinse Yams and slice in half length-wise. Brush with Price
butter or olive oil, just to coat. Lay face-down on a baking Food %
sheet and roast in the oven @ 350F until fork tender
(~ 45 minutes - 1 hour).
2. When yams are cool enough to work with, scoop out the flesh to yield 12 oz.
Mash with the brown sugar and a little half and half to make a smooth mixture.
3. Add the remaining half and half, eggs and vanilla.
4. Butter a 3-quart baking dish or ramekin.
5. Cut croissants into 2-inch pieces and toss with ginger and place in baking dish.
6. Pour custard over the bread mixture and allow to sit for 15 minutes.
7. Toss together brown sugar, cinnamon and pecans, and sprinkle evenly over top.
8. Cover baking dish with aluminum foil and bake @ 325F for 45 minutes.
Remove the foil and bake additional 15 minutes.
9. Serve with Ginger Cream and garnish with yam chips if desired.

NOTE: Canned yams may be substituted, but there will be a difference in flavor
and texture. Yam mixture can be mixed in a Robot-Coupe or Cuisinart food processor
for a smoother texture, or by hand. Any enriched white bread will be fine for recipe.

GINGER CREAM

Half and Half 2 cups
Sugar 1/2 cup
Whole Eggs 3

Fresh Ginger, Grated 1 oz.

METHOD
1. Combine Half and Half with half the sugar
in a sauce pan. Bring to a boil.
2. Whisk eggs and remaining half of sugar.
3. Temper about 1 cup of hot liquid into the egg mixture half at a time, whisking to prevent eggs from cooking.
4. Pour mixture back into the sauce pan and stir until completely mixed.
5. Strain sauce through a chinois or fine mesh strainer.
6. Squeeze the juice from the grated ginger and stir into custard sauce.
7. Chill until needed.

NOTES
1 cup of milk and 1 cup of cream are acceptable substitutes for half and half.

 

Parsnip, Fennel and Potato Purée
Jeff Jackson, chef at The Lodge at Torrey Pines

Ingredients
Medium Parsnips (Peeled) 6 ea.
Medium Yellow Onion (Diced) 1 ea.
Medium Fennel Bulb (Diced) 1 ea.
Medium Potato (Diced) 1 ea.
Butter 2 Tbs.
Light Chicken Stock 2 Cups
Water 2-3 Cups
Salt and Pepper to taste
Butter to taste

Procedure
1) Melt the 2 tablespoons of butter in a stainless pot over medium heat. Add the onions, fennel and a little salt and pepper. Sweat until the vegetables are tender. Do not allow to caramelize.
2) Add the parsnips and potato to the pot, cover with chicken stock and water. Bring to a boil and simmer until tender.
3) Strain the vegetables and purée through a food mill or food processor.
4) Check for seasoning and stir in a little more butter to taste.

Serves four

 

Glazed Sweet Potatoes
Carl Schroeder Arterra Restaurant

2 qt chicken stock
1 qt apple juice
1/3 cup pickled ginger juice
1 box brown sugar
1 pint maple syrup

Bring all ingredients to a boil, add 3 pounds sweet potatoes or yams diced large, lower to a simmer. Cook until tender, remove from liquid and cover with foil to keep warm. Bring liquid back to a simmer, reduce to a syrup. Put potatoes into serving bowl, toss with syrup and salt, pepper and butter to taste.

Although Paul McCabe of L’Auberge Del Mar will be busy with two sold-out dining rooms on Thanksgiving, he took time out to share his favorite stuffing recipe
 
Definitely the most extravagant dish is Tina Luu’s, chef and instructor at The Art Institute of California-San Diego, candied yam croissant bread pudding with ginger crème anglaise. Don’t let the name intimidate you, chef Luu,
who has worked at some of the top restaurants in the country, including One Market, Hawthorne Lane, and Aqua in San Francisco, makes this decadent dessert in less than ten steps.
 
Jeff Jackson, chef at The Lodge at Torrey Pines, came up with a parsnip, fennel, and potato puree that’s no more work than plain ol’ mashed potatoes, but offers up a hearty winter flavor in return.
 
Carl Schroeder, chef at Arterra Restaurant in
Carmel Valley, came up with a simple but delicious maple-braised yam dish that is not only easy to make, but doesn’t require a lot of
babysitting. You just slow roast them in a liquid of butter, brown sugar, maple syrup, and chicken stock.
 
 
 

  
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