MAIN STREET DEL MAR
Camino Del Mar

According to the jingle, old Del Mar is "where the turf meets the surf." But even crooner Bing Crosby, who coined the famous lyrics, would probably agree that, outside of his beloved racetrack, Camino Del Mar is where those in the know meet.

The main street of the city of Del Mar, Camino Del Mar, literally means "the path by the sea" in Spanish. A block away from the ocean, with its heart centered between 9th and 15th Streets, it offers breathtaking views of the Pacific from many of its side streets.

"It's definitely got the look," says Mary Edwards, owner of Rock Candy, a jewelry store on Camino Del Mar that sells pieces by designers like Cynthia Bach, Jamie Wolf, and Devon Page McCleary that can't be found anywhere else in San Diego. "You drive south on 101 and suddenly you're in this adorable village. It just sucks you in."

People have been having that same reaction since 1882 when New Yorker Theodore Loop headed west to build a railroad between Los Angeles and San Diego. Announcing that he had "found the most attractive place on the coast," he laid the original tracks in the middle of what was then called Township 14 and later named Del Mar by Loop's wife.

Three years later, businessman Jacob Shell Taylor - also smitten by the beauty of the area and its untapped potential - bought more than 336 acres and decided to develop a resort town. He created its first hotel and, as Kevin Costner proved in Field of Dreams, if you build it, they will come. Although Taylor's Casa del Mar burned to the ground in 1889, it put Del Mar on the map as an attractive tourist destination.

In 1909, in response to the demand for visitor accommodations, the South Coast Land Company built a grand resort on the northwest corner of Camino Del Mar and 15th Street atop a beautiful piece of property overlooking the beach. The Stratford Inn quickly became a popular haunt for the stars of silent film. "Celebrities would take the train down from Hollywood to the Agua Caliente racetrack in Tijuana," explains Don Terwilliger of the Del Mar Historical Society. "The hotel was conveniently located at the halfway mark, making it easy for them to stay and enjoy a few days at the beach."

Between the 1920s and 1940s, Camino Del Mar enjoyed a real heyday. "The street was packed with celebrities," remembers Terwilliger. "Although there weren't many stores or businesses around, it wasn't uncommon to see legends like Al Jolson and Ruby Keeler dancing under the stars at the hotel or big names like Barbara Stanwyck, Esther Williams, and Bette Davis hanging out at the town's only watering hole and first restaurant, La Tienda, which is now En Fuego."

According to Terwilliger, town residents quickly got used to seeing Bing Crosby and Pat O'Brien volunteer as ushers at St. James Church, located in the building that currently houses the Del Mar Public Library.

The other important landmark on Camino Del Mar at the time was Stratford Square, one of the town's first commercial buildings and home to a grocery store, beauty parlor, doctor's office, and drugstore complete with an old-fashioned soda fountain. Built in 1927, the brown and white building was originally called the Kockritz Building. Its English Tudor style was designed to match that of the Stratford Inn, which was directly across the street. In 1978, the city of Del Mar designated Stratford Square a historical site and, although its original tenants are long gone, it remains as one of the most photographed and treasured spots in Del Mar.

Although there have been many changes since Del Mar was first recognized as Hollywood South, the city remains deeply rooted in its history. In 1989, L'Auberge Del Mar Resort and Spa took over the coveted Stratford Inn property, once again hosting celebrities like Barbara Streisand and James Brolin, Naomi and Wynonna Judd, Bonnie Raitt, and Mel Brooks.

"We're continuing the tradition of the silver screen era," says Beth Benson of L'Auberge. "This was the place to go back then and we're still seeing a continuing flow of celebrities." In fact, this year, the National Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences even included the luxury hotel in its prestigious
Oscar gift bag.

Besides the A-listers of film, TV, and music, L'Auberge also attracts high rollers, jockeys, and horse owners during racing season, the time of year most anticipated by the retailers and restaurateurs of Camino Del Mar.

"During the year, our visitors center on Camino Del Mar and 11th Street gets maybe 10 to 15 walk-ins a day," says Nancy Wasko, president and CEO of the Del Mar Regional Chamber of Commerce. "During the summer, we get more like 50 to 60." The visitors center hands out walking maps of the area's eclectic mix of stores, restaurants, and services so visitors can take advantage of all the village has to offer.

"There's definitely a boom in the summer," agrees Jennifer Grove, president of the Del Mar Village Association, which is working hard to keep that momentum going the rest of the year, as well. "Between the fair, the races, and the people who have second homes here, there's a great vibrancy."

This seasonal differential definitely creates challenges for local businesses, which continually search for ways to attract customers while remaining true to those affectionately nicknamed "Del Martians."

"We look upon July and August as bonus months," says Kipp Downing, proprietor of the award-winning Pacifica Del Mar. "Our local customers are the ones who are here 12 months a year, and we try to cater to their needs."

Downing, whose highly-acclaimed restaurant has been drawing guests to Camino Del Mar since 1989, says he noticed a big change in the village when Amtrak closed its Del Mar station a few years back.

"People used to come down from Orange County for the day because it was so easy," says Nancy Sokal, who's owned Sundancer, a Camino Del Mar boutique, since 1994. "Now we have to try harder. We nurture relationships with our regular customers, emailing them photos of new merchandise and even sending them pieces on approval. Best of all, we have four free parking spaces in back for them."

In a town where finding a parking spot is no small feat, this may be reason enough to visit. During the summer, the Del Mar Village Association offers valet parking every night from 5:30-11pm. For just $7 per car, visitors can drop off their car in front of Bully's on Camino Del Mar and spend the evening eating, shopping, and strolling down the streets.

Parking is just one of the distinctive features of the Del Mar Plaza, the unique three-tiered mixture of beach and sophistication that was designed to act as a town center and reflect the unique character of the village. Opened in 1990 on the northeast corner of Camino Del Mar and 15th Street, the Plaza features 22 high-end stores, nine restaurants, and a variety of services. Each of its three levels opens to public spaces fitted with comfortable seating overlooking the ocean.

"The Plaza has always had a more sophisticated feel," says Patricia Straight, owner of the specialty-clothing boutique, Peaches En Regalia, and one of the Plaza's original tenants. "Our customers come to us because they know they'll find designer lines they can't find anywhere else around here. And now, with the incredible views and excellent bars, we're noticing more of a 'day to date' - or '9 to 9' - feel to the Plaza, which is attracting a younger clientele who are also looking for items that will elicit that 'where did you get that?' reaction."

Robin Sumner, general manager of Epazote, one of the mainstays of the Del Mar Plaza, agrees that Del Mar - and the Plaza specifically - is becoming more contemporary and changing with the times. This summer the restaurant is following that same trend, undergoing a huge change by transforming itself from Southwest fusion to an upscale,
ocean-view steakhouse.

"We want to become as well known for our food as our margaritas," says Sumner. "We think it's going to work because most steakhouses are dark and pretty traditional. Ours will have beautiful patio ocean views along with great food."

According to Grove, change is definitely in the air. Three new women's boutiques have recently opened on Camino Del Mar, two of them in the Plaza. Looking toward the future, she says, "There's a huge piece of property at the far south end of town. Because the number of shops dwindle the further south you go, we're doing extensive research to figure out the right retail mix to create a center that will help anchor the village."

Whether this new addition tries to capture the vibe of old Camino Del Mar favorite The Frustrated Cowboy or new Camino Del Mar favorite JCarl Shoes, locals and tourists alike are likely to flock there. After all, as Downing points out, "It's Del Mar. What's not to like?" - Lois Alter Mark, photography by Vincent Knakal