Cocoa Island Resort

The Maldives
Patches Of Paradise In The Indian Ocean
Until Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes honeymooned in the Republic of the Maldives, most Americans had never heard of Asia’s smallest nation. However, paparazzi photos of turquoise lagoons, swaying palms trees, and pristine white beaches piqued our interest. When my husband and I learned that this tropical country is located off the southern tip of India, we opted to extend our already-planned trip to the area.

"Hey, we’re going to be in the neighborhood...why not?"

What we found are almost 1,200 idyllic isles grouped into a chain of 19 atolls stretching over 500 miles of beautiful blue water. About 200 of the islands are inhabited, including 93 that are each home to a single resort. These are not just your run-of-the-mill luxury lodgings, but are over-the-top, drop-dead gorgeous places that make you think you’ve died and gone to heaven.

Cocoa Island was our first stop. Here, 33 overwater suites and villas give guests immediate access to a coral reef teeming with colorful fish. Our initial foray into the water was meant to be a quick look, but we were so taken with the quantity and variety of marine life that it lasted over two hours. Snorkeling along the edge of the reef, we peered into an immense canyon full of dark water, where turtles and large silvery fish created a dream-like vision. In the shallower water, we were engulfed by huge schools of striped, polka-dotted, and iridescent creatures that stared right into our masks and nibbled our legs. (www.cocoaisland.como.bz)

The reef and year-round warm water drew the first international visitors to the Maldives, but now serious divers share the islands with honeymooners, families, and other affluent travelers. These folks are not Americans — with the exception of TomKat, of course, and a few others. They are Germans, Italians, Russians, British, French, Dutch, Swiss, Swedish, and Asians who arrive in Male on a flock of charter flights and scheduled airlines. For San Diegans, the best routing is via JFK and Dubai, which makes it convenient to visit the UAE’s new oasis.

Because of the tourism boom, fishing is no longer the backbone of the Maldivian economy, however traditional dhoni boats are the inspiration for Cocoa Island’s overwater digs. Our spacious dhoni loft suite included a large living room with chic furnishings and wraparound windows, an oversized dressing/bath area, a second level with a king bed and half bath, and a wooden deck with stairs into the lagoon.

The island is small (we walked around it in less than 15 minutes), flat, and covered in soft, créme-colored sand. When guests aren’t in the lagoon, some are doing yoga, enjoying the infinity pool, kayaking, sailing, wind surfing, and playing in the large hydrotherapy pool (laid out like an underwater par course). Others are flaked out in one of the hammock chairs placed around the island or ogling the gorgeous views from their private piece of paradise.

In fact, some guests only emerge from their quarters to keep appointments at Cocoa Island’s wonderful Como Shambhala Spa. My favorite of the Asian-inspired body treats is the signature massage, in which a Balinese therapist uses a combination of Indonesian and Thai techniques — including long, slow, firm strokes — to relax every muscle in my body. Treatment rooms nestled amongst mangroves at the water’s edge provide great views, privacy, and the mellow sound of gentle waves lapping up on the sand.

Another motivation to leave one’s overwater retreat: the wonderful meals prepared by chef Stana Johnson. A Perth native, Johnson’s experiences in multi-cultural Australia were the perfect preparation for cooking for the variety of guests at Cocoa. She contracts with a local boat for "fish on demand" and airfreights most other ingredients. The resulting menu includes dishes that are influenced by South Indian cuisine, but include Western ingredients. Tandoor duck is one example; adding Indian chutney to eggs Florentine is another.

While Cocoa Island is petite and very quiet, Anantara Resort (also located in South Male Atoll) offers 110 deluxe beachfront and overwater suites and is popular with families, as well as honeymooners. Four restaurants offer Italian, Thai, Maldivian, and fusion cuisine. While I enjoyed all of our meals, my favorite was the one my husband and I prepared in a Thai cooking class. (www.anantara.com)

The fresh herbs smelled wonderful when we chopped, sliced, and crushed them per Chef Paitoon’s instructions. The chili, garlic, and Siamese ginger were for the Yam Tha Lay seafood salad. We also prepared Tom Kha Gai (coconut milk soup with chicken) and Ghoong Makham (wok-fried scampi). The seafood — all from Sri Lanka, except for the Australian scallops — was delicious, and my mouth still waters when I remember the Khao Niew Mamuang — sticky rice with coconut milk and sweet mango dessert.

After the Thai food it was time for a Thai massage. In this treatment a tiny, size-two person used her feet, thumbs, knees, and elbows to stretch my joints and deliver an amazing deep tissue massage. Anantara’s spa is over water and the table’s face cradle was over a window in the floor of the room, so I had a sea view.

Afterwards, I flopped down by the vanishing-edge pool and watched the big orange sun sink into the lagoon. I was still there when it got dark and the 1,000 or so fiber optic lights embedded in the bottom of the pool became twinkling stars dancing on the surface of the water. Eventually, I drifted off to the sound of a mellow guitar coming from Aqua Bar.

Within view of Anantara, Naladhu Maldives opened in late March this year and was quickly included in Condé Nast Traveler’s Hot List of new hotels. Here, for $2,000 a night, guests are ensconced in one of 19 beautifully appointed villas — each with its own green mosaic tile pool surrounded by an expansive deck. (www.naladhu.com)

All of the quarters in this exclusive hideaway have English colonial decors, including king beds, Oriental rugs, and swinging queen-size daybeds on a tile deck. A spacious indoor-outdoor bathroom includes an infinity tub that appears to spill into the pool.

Six of the villas face the beach on the lagoon side of the island, but the best ones — in my opinion — face the ocean on the more private, sunrise side. Another plus: each of the Ocean Houses has a designated cabaña on the lagoon so guests can have the best of both worlds.
— Elizabeth Hansen, photography by Adams/Hansen Stock Photos

Al Maha Bedouin Suite, photo courtesy of Al Maha Desert Resort

Dubai — Desert Dream
Perched between the sparkling waters of the Arabian Gulf and the Champagne-coloured dunes of the desert lies an improbable paradise. Dubai has burst onto the world stage like a fireworks display. Since oil was discovered in 1968, this ancient trading port has gone from sleepy to sizzling.

Dubai is adept at wooing visitors. It caters to families brilliantly, yet offers luxury and romance. You can find hotels, dining, nightlife, and shopping to rival the best anywhere. Dubai combines an ancient Arabic culture and history with the latest trends. In minutes you can travel from skyscrapers to sand dunes, beach bars to Bedouin tents.

If you like the beach, stay in upscale Jumeirah. The best of Dubai’s many five-star resorts are located here, set amidst the palm-fringed landscape. One of the best is Madinat Jumeirah. It’s a delightful Arabian fantasy of waterways, restaurants, pools and pleasures. With its award-winning Talise Spa, three boutique hotels to choose from, a pristine stretch of beach, and an entire souk-style shopping area, it is a destination in itself. A stay at Madinat Jumeirah provides everything you could wish for, from kids clubs to nightclubs.

Further along the coast, the One & Only Royal Mirage beckons with its Moroccan-style resort, while the aristocratic Ritz-Carlton offers a discreet alternative to Dubai’s glitzier hotels. If you want glamour, iconic Burj Al Arab attracts an A-list crowd.

Dubai Marina Beach is the latest Jumeirah development, and already gleaming white yachts grace its waterfront. Rising above it all is Grosvenor House, the hippest new hotel in town, earning rave reviews for its service and style. The hotel boasts the stunning Buddha Bar, which attracts the cream of Dubai’s gilded youth. There is also Retreat, an entire floor devoted to spa treatments.

Away from the coast, historic Dubai is found in the winding alleys of the Bastakia Quarter by Dubai Creek, the scenic waterway that runs through the city. Here the traditional homes of traders, with their elegant wind towers and garden courtyards, have been restored to their former glory. The area is having a renaissance, as top galleries like Majlis and the very hip XVA promote the talents of regional artists.

The winter season is the highlight of Dubai’s social calendar, when Gulfstream glitterati arrive for polo, the PGA Desert Classic, the Dubai Tennis Championships, thoroughbred racing, and the round of fashion shows, concerts, exhibitions, and openings that make Dubai such a whirlwind. If you like to shop, you’re in tax-free retail heaven. Dubai has it all: from malls featuring top designers to old-fashioned souks selling spices.

Dubai is so cosmopolitan it’s easy to forget its Bedouin beginnings. For an escape into the breathtaking desert dunes, stay at Al Maha, where you can relax in tented villas with every comfort, including your own private pool, while seeing the desert in all its beauty. Guides take guests on a variety of safaris, from horse riding at dawn to sunset on the dunes. — Hallie Campbell
Hallie Campbell is a travel writer based in the UK and is currently writing DUBAICHIC,
a guide to the best of Dubai.

www.dubaitourism.ae or www.dubaicityguide.com

For upcoming Dubai events visit www.timeoutdubai.com/dubai/

For desert safari and city tours visit Arabian Adventures at www.arabianadventures.com

For Madinat Jumeirah and Burj Al Arab visit www.jumeirah.com

For Grosvenor House Hotel visit www.grosvenorhouse-dubai.com

For One & Only Royal Mirage visit www.oneandonlyresorts.com

For Al Maha visit www.emirateshotelsresorts.com

For the Grand Hyatt visit www.dubai.grand.hyatt.com

For the Ritz-Carlton Dubai visit www.ritzcarlton.com

For the XVA gallery and guesthouse visit www.xva@xvagallery.com

Shoo Fee Ma Fee Restaurant,
photo courtesy of Madinat Jumeirah