Sicilian Breaded Swordfish by executive chef Frankie The Bull of Scalini in Del Mar

Don’t Go Changing
From classic to contemporary, what makes a signature dish distinctive and unforgettable? Start with fresh and wholesome ingredients, end with flavor and quality. More times than not, a signature dish is made extraordinary with a few simple twists. From a dash of spice to a drizzle of sauce, a meal can be transformed into a sumptuous masterpiece, too picture-perfect to eat. After momentarily admiring this plated tour de force, savoring every luscious bite is effortless. The only drawback? You’re hooked, passionately craving an entree that is etched in your mind for life. Hopefully, the chef doesn’t make any changes, has mercy on your plight, and realizes that a repeat customer is the greatest of compliments. We’ve asked some local chefs to share the secrets of their success.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal



AUGUST RECIPES



Ginger Glazed Pacific Ono with Shiitake Mushrooms from
The Fish Market in Del Mar

Ingredients for the ginger glaze:
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup fresh ginger, finely chopped
1/4 cup oyster sauce
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup Thai red curry paste
1/4 cup cilantro, finely chopped, stems and leaves
2 tbsp garlic, finely chopped

In a saucepan, cook and stir the ingredients over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved.
Allow to cool and refrigerate.

Ingredients for the seasoned flour:
1 cup all purpose flour
1 tsp black pepper
1/2 tsp Salt

Ingredients for the ginger glazed Pacific Ono:
2 - 6 oz. filets of Ono, cut 1-inch thick
2 cups steamed jasmine rice
11/2 cups ginger glaze
1 cup sliced shiitake mushrooms
1 tbsp salad oil

Preparation:
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Lightly dredge the fish in seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Add the Ono and shiitake mushrooms to the pan. Cook the fish until lightly browned on both sides. Add the Ginger glaze to the pan and coat the fish and mushrooms. Serve the fish on a platter with jasmine rice. Top the fish with the mushrooms and the remaining sauce.

Ginger Glazed Pacific Ono with Shiitake Mushrooms from The Fish Market in Del Mar
Bully’s Prime Rib by executive chef Izzy Trejo of Bully’s in Del Mar
Mixed Grill of Game by executive chef Tom Dimella of Pamplemousse Grille in Del Mar
It’s A Matter Of Taste
Creative and cutting-edge, Market Restaurant + Bar dares to be the best of the best in artful decor and au courant dishes. Together, owners chef Carl Schroeder and restaurateur Terryl Gavre have created a trendy and distinguished niche in Del Mar.

Gavre’s nouveau handiwork expresses unparalleled fashion in an interior that exudes both comfort and design versatility. Tables are ornamented with off-white linens and cocoa-tinted folio chairs. A unique perimeter of plush chocolate leather banquettes accented with a ’70s-type sphere-patterned fabric of dark orange, deep red, and avocado green adds a bit of mystery and excitement to the convivial yet elegant setting.

Frequent visits to nearby Chino Farms for fresh and organic produce allows for a menu that changes daily. "Since I have customers that visit two or three times each week, it is important to offer new selections," Schroeder says. "It gives me the freedom to come in that morning and cook whatever suits my mood."

Summer is defined with a bowl of Chilled Corn Soup amidst mouth-watering bites of Maine lobster, avocado, and petite heirloom tomatoes. Zesty bits of micro-cilantro add an unobstructed essence and tang. "Micro-herbs are picked just as the plant begins to bud," Schroeder says. "The herbs end up tasting so much stronger." Pair with Pierre Boniface Vin de Savoie Apremont, 2005.

My pick for the night was the petite and puffy Blue Cheese Soufflé, an elusive and creamy, not too cheesy delicacy topped with candied almonds. Organic slices of white peaches incorporate with mache salad and peach marmalade to provide a rich and balanced finish. Pair with Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese, 2005.

Initially, I was not in the mood for Soft-Shell Crab from Maryland, but I was pleasantly surprised. Proving that looks are deceiving, this distinct varietal is lightly crusted and fried, creating a crunchy coating that leaves the inside meat moist and flavorful. Perched on top of a citrus chili glaze, haricot vert, and papaya-avocado salad, every bite is a sweet and salty delicacy. Pair with Yering Station Chardonnay, 2004, Yarra Valley, Australia.

Nothing beats barbecued ribs on a hot August night. Schroeder’s ever-popular succulent and fork-tender Cabernet Braised Prime Beef Ribs are a luxury sure to satisfy any appetite. Hefty pieces of plump boneless ribs, generously slathered with a sultry and glossy barbecue sauce, are coordinated faultlessly with a smooth and silky sweet-onion potato puree, sherry glazed cippolini onions, and spring vegetable roast. Pair with Hedges Family Estate, Red Mountain, 2004.

Desserts are nothing short of sensuous. The Warm Blueberry Galette is playfully presented as a flaky and buttery pastry shell filled with a faintly tart blueberry compote. A side of ginger ice cream seductively coats every bite of this stunning tartlet-like cake, collectively suited with cardamom almond granola and apricot coulis. Pair with Bella Late Harvest Zinfandel, 2005.

Gain a serotonin boost with a chocolaty sensation that I hope will make a frequent appearance. Not one, but two Market Bars consist of mildly chilled Peanut Crunch Chocolate Mousse Cake shaped into two long rectangular squares atop a thin and crispy wafer-like crust. Finely chopped glazed bananas are drizzled daintily alongside and on top. It looks dense and heavy, but tastes feather-light. Pair with Porto Niepoort Colheita, 1991, Portugal.

I had an amazing experience here, concluding that Market has a mesmerizing split personality. On the one hand, it is sleek and retro, allowing for some after-work relaxation. On the other hand it is elegant and refined — perfect for a chic evening celebration. (858/523-0007, www.marketdelmar.com)
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal

A Few Words With
Chef/Owner Carl Schroeder

Style of Cooking: California Contemporary

Spice you can’t live without:
I love Maldon Crystal Salt.

Philosophy on organic:
I wish everything was organic.

Herb preference: Petite micro-herbs,
especially cilantro.

Favorite style of music: Jazz.

Desired travel destination: Tahiti.

Foreign films pick: The Cook, The Thief,
His Wife & Her Lover (1989)

Preferred wine: 1982 Chateau Latour.

Guilty indulgence: Valrhona chocolate.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
A football coach.
 


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