Linzertorte by executive chef Martin Woesle at Mille Fleurs in Rancho Santa Fe

For The Love Of Pie
My hat goes off to anyone who can master the technique of making pie. For one thing, there are hundreds of pie crust recipes that bakers will swear by, and creating a flaky, buttery, melt-in-your-mouth pastry crust can be a very intimidating venture. And then there’s that endless list of fillings ranging from apple, cherry, and blueberry to pecan, pumpkin, or lemon meringue. Whatever your taste buds prefer, pie remains one of the most popular of desserts and has a mesmerizing way of creating memories that make everyone feel warm and fuzzy inside. Whether you are looking to indulge in a new favorite (or two), or simply decide the time has come to finally make a pie, your search is over. We’ve asked some local chefs to show you the way.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photos by Vincent Knakal



DECEMBER RECIPES


Epazote’s Seasonal Berry Pie by executive chef Anthony DeLuca
at Epazote in Del Mar

(yields 2 pies)

Ingredients for the pie dough:
2 lb 8 oz pastry flour
1 lb 8 oz shortening
1/2 oz salt
16 oz water

Dissolve salt in water. Set aside. Place flour and shortening in mixing bowl. Add salt and water and mix very gently, just until water is absorbed. Do not overwork the dough. Place dough in refrigerator for 2 hours.

Ingredients for the pie filling:
4 lbs fresh mixed seasonal berries.
1 lb 8 oz sugar
2 cups water
1 tsp lemon juice
1/8 tsp cinnamon
8 oz water
4 oz cornstarch

Add the first 5 ingredients to a saucepan (except use only half of the berries.) Bring to a boil. Mix in the cornstarch and water mixture. Slowly add to berries until thickened. Put into the refrigerator and let cool. Then bake pie at 425 degrees for 30 minutes.



Dutch Apple-Pumpkin Pie with Praline Streusel Topping by executive pastry
chef Stephanie Tesnow of JRDN at Tower23 Hotel in Pacific Beach

Ingredients for the pie dough:
11/2 cups all purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt
6 tbsp shortening
1 tbsp cold water

Using a pastry cutter, cut in shortening until pea sized. Sprinkle cold water over mixture, form dough into a ball, and place in the refrigerator until chilled.

Ingredients for the apple filling:
3 large Granny Smith apples
1/3 cup sugar
2 tbsp all purpose flour
1/4 tsp cinnamon

Peel and slice apples thin. Toss with sugar, flour, and cinnamon. Place in bottom of pie shell.

Ingredients for the pumpkin pie filling:
1 15-ounce can of pumpkin
3/4 cup sugar
2 tsp pumpkin pie spice
3 eggs
3/4 half & half or light cream

In a large bowl, combine the pumpkin, sugar, and pumpkin pie spice. Add the eggs and beat lightly. Gradually beat in the half & half. Pour over sliced apples and bake at 350 degrees for 25-30 minutes or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.

Ingredients for the praline streusel topping:
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup all purpose flour
2 tbsp cold butter
1/2 cup chocolate covered toffee
3/4 cup walnuts

Place all in a bowl, and using a pastry cutter, combine all until crumbly. Sprinkle over the pie and bake for 10-15 minutes until the topping is crisp.

Warm Apple Crumble Pie with Vanilla Bean Gelato and Caramel by executive chef Susan Sbicca at Sbicca Bistro in Del Mar and Encinitas
Epazote’s Seasonal Berry Pie by executive chef Anthony DeLuca at Epazote in Del Mar
Dutch Apple-Pumpkin Pie with Praline Streusel Topping by executive pastry chef Stephanie Tesnow of JRDN in Pacific Beach
Extravagant Escape —
Damon Gordon’s Quarter Kitchen
Ivy Hotel’s Quarter Kitchen is a lively, night-on-the-town, Vegas-style dining destination attracting locals, a mix of yuppies, and visiting tourists.

A striking and ultramodern décor features high ceilings, a stark contrast of woods, plush furnishings, and candlelit tables. The stunning open exhibition kitchen allows for a sneak peak at fancy entrees laden with gourmet ingredients.

Under the direction of executive chef Damon Gordon, contemporary cuisine maintains a time-honored foundation. "I was taught to cook traditionally and I’m not interested in coupling fish with chocolate," says Gordon. "I’m not saying it doesn’t work; just not for me."

A handful of bite-size Caviar Tacos makes for a distinctively amusing hors d’ouevre. Mini corn tortilla taco shells are dressed to the nines with a rich layer of horseradish cream, finely-diced red onions, and chives. A spoonful of Iranian Osetra Caviar dolloped gracefully on top adds a salty yet not too fishy burst of flavor to the mix. Pair with NV Sparkling Rose, Roederer Estate, Brut, Anderson Valley.

The straightforward presentation of the caprese salad with teardrop, heirloom, and fried-green tomatoes with buffalo mozzarella and 25-year-old balsamic is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. A dash of light seasoning keeps this entree clean, refined, and uncomplicated. Pair with NV Sparkling, Roederer Estate, Brut, Anderson Valley.

The Kobe Tataki — lightly seared on the outside and very rare in the center — consists of three ounces of Kobe beef sliced paper thin. The beef is delicate and light on the palate, served with Japanese mountain plums and pickled ginger root. Garnishes of shiso leaf, carrot, daikon, and ginger ponzu add an essence of sweet perfume. Pair with Matanzas Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Bennett Valley, CA.

Pure bred and naturally raised, the grilled Berkshire Pork Chop has optimal pH levels resulting in a low lactic acid build-up making for a tender and succulent cut of meat. A thick chop is served with hollandaise as well as a diable sauce; made from a reduction of white wine vinegar, shallots, and crushed white peppercorns and pork jus. Pair with Valsacro, Rioja, 2001, Spain.

The Blackened Hamachi is coated with togarashi pepper and spices of chili pepper, orange peel, black and white sesame seeds, Japanese pepper, ginger, and seaweed. It is seared rare to perfection served with wok-fried vegetables and spicy red miso sauce. Pair with Hautes Cotes de Beaune, Arnoux, Burgundy, 2005.

The Grilled Sea Bass is moist and flaky, placed neatly on a bed of risotto made with shallots, garlic, white wine, sautéed seasonal mushrooms, butter, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. This dish is finished with shellfish foam made from a shellfish stock reduction and heavy cream. Pair with d’Arenberg "The Hermit Crab" Marsanne Viognier, 2005, Australia.

The 12-ounce Prime Strip Steak, seasoned with salt and black pepper, is grilled to your liking. Swirl each juicy bite in a savory hollandaise sauce made from cooked egg yolks, white wine vinegar, crushed white peppercorns, shallots, and clarified butter. Pair with Dare, Cabernet Franc, 2004, Napa Valley.

Even the most eager dessert connoisseur will be daunted with the made-to-order Hawai’ian Baked Alaska executed by Gordon and executive sous chef Chris Jakubiec. Mango ice cream is enveloped by a moist coconut cake nestled atop Malibu Mango Sauce. A generous outside layer of coconut meringue is flambéed tableside.

A fireside delicacy is transformed in the s’mores made with a graham cracker crumb sandwich filled with a dark chocolate ganache. If that wasn’t enough, the addition of housemade caramelized marshmallows and chocolate ice cream ruined me forever from trying to construct my own s’mores by campfire, by candlelight, on my stovetop, or anywhere else for that matter. (619/814-2000, www.quarterkitchen.com) — Maria Desiderata Montana, photo by Vincent Knakal

A Few Words With
Chef Damon Gordon

Style of Cooking: Contemporary Cuisine with Traditional Foundation

Birthplace: Ipswich, England.

Culinary education: Two years fulltime
at Suffolk College.

Favorite wine: Any good Riesling.

Spice you can’t live without: Black pepper.

Pet peeve: A dirty kitchen drives me insane.

Philosophy on organic: Should be mainstream and affordable for everyone.

Favorite dish to make: A whole roasted chicken.

Special motto: If you are going to do something, do it properly or not at all.

Chef mentors: Michel Roux and Claude Troisgros. Both men encompass passion and commitment to cooking.
 


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