Little Italy Festa

Little Italy, Big Fun
The Italian immigrants who settled in San Diego during the early 20th century must’ve felt right at home in their New World digs. Not only did they discover a climate and geography similar to that of their native land, they found a tight-knit community all their own: Little Italy. Not far from the waterfront, where Italian-Americans had established a busy commercial fishing industry, the downtown enclave thrived.

A century later, Little Italy is a textbook case of successful urban renewal. As you stroll the bustling streets lined with lofts, eateries, boutiques, and galleries, it’s hard to imagine that less than two decades ago, the area’s future was unsure. A mid-century decline in commercial fishing started the downturn, while the construction of Interstate 5 in the ’70s wiped out a good chunk of the neighborhood.

In the mid-’90s, the city commissioned a group of forward-thinking architects to build cutting-edge residential and retail structures, as well as green public spaces — but not at the expense of Little Italy’s personality. It was a long and costly process, but today the "urban village" is a desirable zip code for city dwellers and a favorite daytime destination for visitors.

So basta — enough with the history lesson. Benvenuto to Little Italy.

Getting There
Just a few blocks from downtown’s Santa Fe Depot, the neighborhood is one of the most pedestrian-friendly in San Diego. Consider arriving by rail, especially on weekends associated with big annual events such as ArtWalk, a two-day art event that draws 90,000 people every April, and October’s Precious Festa, the largest Italian festival outside of New York City.

A walking tour of Little Italy is an ideal way to explore its architectural splendors, from wood cottages to glass-and-steel high-rises. Hoofing it also gives you easy access to the many shops, salons, and cafes along the main drags (Kettner and India) and the tree-themed cross streets (from Ash to Laurel).

Art’s At Its Heart
Starving artists can’t afford the sky-high Little Italy rents, but a number of galleries cater to the city’s collectors. Of new-ish note: Noel-Baza Fine Art, which opened late last year, combines the curatorial talents of Tom Noel and Larry Baza and presents exhibitions by local and regional talents. R3 Gallery occupies the street level of a striking mixed-use building — it was designed in 2006 by architect Lloyd Russell; his wife, Ame Parlsey, runs the contemporary gallery with her partner, Dustin Gilmore.

Home-design aficionados flock to Little Italy. The indoor and outdoor showrooms of Mixture are a dream come true for the Dwell and Metropolitan Home set. Midcentury lovers will score superb originals at Boomerang For Modern’s new storefront. Also with a more spacious new location, Architectural Salvage yields many fine treasures. Several shops and galleries belong to the neighborhood’s Art & Design District. Once every other month, they host Kettner Nights, with extended hours and special events (upcoming: June 8, from 6-9pm).

Bella, Bella
Unique boutiques await on every block. Find beautiful Italian goods at Bella Stanza — the shop’s leather-covered clasp bracelets make a perfect last-minute gift. Niche sells chic clothing and accessories for au courant ladies and their little ones. Che Bella lives up to its name with exquisite high-end floral arrangements. And Station, which recently celebrated its one-year anniversary, continues to carry the coolest men’s and women’s lines, and now offers manis and pedis as well.

Salon Tonic was one of the first businesses to take advantage of Little Italy’s redevelopment. The modern, airy salon, especially prized for its hair color services, has kept hip local urbanites looking their best since 2001. An adorable pair of best friends opened Urban Skin Care in an equally adorable 1930s house eight years ago. Their staff offers a range of spa services, but they’re famed for their quick and precise waxing.

Mangia Bene
Italian food celebrates the blissful carb — from pasta to pizza, the flavors couldn’t be more worth a diet departure. For an authentic ristorante experience, try Café Zucchero or Zagarella, followed by a gelato at Pappalecco. Or take the good stuff home — Assenti’s sells fantastic fresh pasta, Solunto’s Bakery peddles perfect pane, and Mona Lisa market stocks a wide assortment of Italian goodies, from packaged foodstuffs to vino.

For a casual cin cin (a laidback Italian toast), head to The Waterfront — it’s the oldest bar in San Diego and such a landmark that a residential structure was built around it rather than tear it down. Four women run Tango Wine, a cozy new wine bar, while the swank music club Anthology offers three impressive levels for enjoying various lineups. All perfetto ways to end a perfetto day.

Magnificent Mercato
There’s also a new reason to head to Little Italy — every Saturday starting June 7, from 9am-1:30pm, the new Little Italy Mercato will feature organic fruit and vegetable stands, seafood, fresh pasta, cheese and olive oil purveyors, bread bakers, and top name chefs in booths from Kettner to Union Streets and beyond. Mercato manager Catt White notes there will be a strong presence from local chefs, with demos, and challenges, and gourmet breakfast and lunch offerings. — AnnaMaria Stephens