Around-the-World Chocolate Tasting for Two by executive chef Chris Powell and pastry chef James Hampton of Rancho Valencia Restaurant in Rancho Santa Fe

The Irresistable Crème De La Crème
Whether you are a chocolate evangelist, a cold creamy treat aficionado, or a pastry lover who craves delicate textures, the world of desserts deserves exploration. From exotic flavorings to frosting, sprinkles, and fluff, the nuances of textures in that perfect dessert are truly inspiring. If you pine for something sensual and yearn for the melt of chocolate ganache or sweet butter cream on your tongue, keep in mind that even though many recipes require a lot of time and love, the end result is well worth it. Forget the pre-packaged goodies. Your house may just become the most popular once you’ve decided to whip-up your own extravagant specialties. We’ve asked some local pastry chefs to show you how to get quite involved in the sensual aspects of creating some sexy and thrilling surprises that are not subtle in presentation or flavor.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal



FEBRUARY RECIPES


Around-The-World Chocolate Tasting for Two by executive chef Chris Powell and pastry
chef James Hampton at Rancho Valencia Restaurant in Rancho Santa Fe

Black Forrest Trifle, Chocolate Lavender Pot Du Crème, Dulce de Leche Tart, Assorted Truffles

Ingredients for the Black Forrest Triffle: (diced brownie chocolate sauce, Amarena cherries (or other sweet cherries), whipped cream, chocolate shavings)

For the brownie
1 cup butter
3/4 cup cocoa powder
2 cups sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
3 eggs
1 cup all purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
pinch of salt

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat and add the cocoa powder and stir until smooth. Stir in the sugar. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring well after each addition. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt. Stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture. Spread into a 9"x9" pan, sprayed with non-stick spray. Bake at 325 degrees Fahrenheit for 20-25 minutes, until set in the center. Allow to cool before cutting. Dice the brownie as desired.

For the chocolate sauce:
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
3/4 cup cocoa powder
2 oz semi-sweet chocolate

In a small saucepan, boil the water and the sugar. Add the cocoa powder and chocolate. Stir until smooth. Strain and allow to cool completely. If the sauce it too thick, adjust the consistency with additional water.

To assemble the trifle: Place a few cherries in the bottom of a glass. Add just enough chocolate sauce to cover. Add a few pieces of the diced brownie. Cover the brownie with whipped cream. Repeat each step to fill the glass, topping with a rosette of whipped cream and chocolate shavings.

Ingredients for the Chocolate Lavender Pot Du Crème: pot du crème, whipped cream, fresh raspberries)

For the Chocolate Lavender Pot du Crème
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup milk
2 tbsp dried lavender
6 oz semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate
1/2 cup sugar
6 egg yolks

In a small saucepan scald the cream and milk with the lavender. Pour over the chocolate and stir until completely melted and smooth. In a separate bowl, stir together the sugar and the yolks. Slowly pour the cream mixture over the eggs, stirring constantly. Strain the mixture and divide into ramekins. Bake at 325 degrees Fahrenheit in a water bath until set, about 20 minutes. Remove from the water bath and refrigerate until cold. Serve with whipped cream and fresh berries.

Ingredients for the Dulce De Leche Tart: (cocoa tart shells, dulce de leche, ganache)

For the cocoa tart shells:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1/2 cup sugar
pinch of salt
1 cup butter, cold, cut into small pieces
2 egg yolks
2 tbsp cream, cold
1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Sift the flour, cocoa, sugar, and salt together. Cut the butter into the flour mixture and blend with either a fork or pastry blender until it resembles coarse meal. Combine the yolks, cream, and the vanilla extract. Add the cream mixture to the flour mixture and stir until uniformly mixed. Flatten into a disk and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Roll the dough to 1/8-inch thick and place in tart molds. Trim any excess from the top edge. Prick with a fork and fill with pie weights or dry beans. Bake at 325 degrees Fahrenheit until completely bake through, about 12-15 minutes. Allow to cool before removing the beans.

For the dulce de leche: 1 can sweetened condensed milk

Remove the label from the can. In medium saucepan, place the can of condensed milk in the center and cover with water. Bring the water to a simmer. Continue to cook at a simmer for 21/2 to 3 hours. The water must remain at least 1-inch deep over the top of the can. If needed, add more water to the pan while cooking. Allow to cool completely before opening. Empty the contents of the can into a bowl and stir until uniform in consistency.

For the ganache:
1/2 cup cream
31/2 oz bittersweet chocolate

Scald the cream and pour over the chocolate. Stir until smooth.

To assemble the Dulce De Leche Tart: Fill the tart shells with the dulce de leche leaving a space of 1/8 inch at the top. Refrigerate until the filling is slightly firm, about 10 minutes. Pour the ganache over the filling and allow to cool at room temperature.

Assorted Truffles (Milk and White Chocolate):

For the truffle filling:
1/2 cup cream
1 lb chocolate, milk or white, chopped fine
3 tbsp butter, soft

Scald the cream and pour over the chocolate. Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in the softened butter. Cool in the refrigerator until firm. Scoop with a melon baller. Dip in melted chocolate and roll in cocoa powder, powdered sugar, finely chopped nuts, etc.

Flavor can be added by substituting up to 1 tbsp of the cream with liqueur or extract. The cream can also be infused with herbs and spices, such as, cinnamon, lavender, or citrus zest.



Meringue Heart Boxes by pastry chef/owner Michele Coulon of
Michele Coulon Dessertier in La Jolla

What you will need:
baking sheet lined with parchment paper
colored marker
electric mixer, bowl, and whisk attachment
heart-shaped cookie cutters
pastry bag with 1/4 inch round tip

Ingredients:
1/2 cup egg whites (about 4 egg whites)*
1 cup superfine sugar**
1/4 tsp cream of tartar
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 tsp Baileys

Options for decoration: Fresh berries, edible flowers (Ocean Beach People’s Food Store carries these in the produce department), milk, white, or bittersweet chocolate curls; 23-carat gold leaf and/or dust (you can order the gold at www.sugarcraft.com)

Procedure: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Draw hearts on parchment paper using marker and cookie cutters. Turn parchment paper over so marker does not get on your meringue. Set aside. Beat egg whites and cream of tarter with electric mixer using whisk attachment until stiff. Add superfine sugar gradually. Beat on medium speed for 15 minutes. Mixture will become sticky and thick. Put meringue into pastry bag and pipe on baking sheet. For bottoms fill in the heart and then build up the sides by piping around the edge 3 times. For tops either fill in the heart or just the outline. Bake until bottom of meringues feels dry — at least one hour. Take out of oven and cool. Meringues can be tightly wrapped and frozen at this point (1 week maximum). Whip up cream until stiff. Add Baileys. Put cream in pastry bag and fill heart meringue dishes. Decorate as desired.

*We use only free-range eggs
** Also called "bakers sugar"



Remaining recipes coming soon!

Chocolate Mocha Mousse Black Bottom Pie by executive pastry chef/owner Shane Pursell of Thyme in the Ranch in Rancho Santa Fe

Meringue Heart Boxes by pastry chef/owner Michele Coulon of Michele Coulon Dessertier
in La Jolla
Sesame Ice Cream Profiteroles with Chocolate Molé (front), and Beet and Ginger Sorbet with Satsuma Tangerine (back) by executive pastry chef John Harmeier of The Lodge at Torrey Pines
Romantic Rendezvous — Mille Fleurs
Amid the cobblestone streets in the heart of Rancho Santa Fe is a charming and secluded little gem that will transport you back in time to old traditional France where dining was a well-designed and leisurely affair.

The scene is quintessentially romantic with twinkling candles casting a warm glow over an elegant and intimate ambiance. White linens, beautiful crystal, fragrant flowers, and a large stone fireplace set a dreamy tone, allowing guests to feel like they are dining in a refined and elegant mansion.

Executive chef Martin Woesle dazzles guests with a sumptuous international cuisine, highlighted with local, seasonal ingredients. "The food is only as good as the ingredients I put into it," says Woesle. "That is why our menu changes daily; to ensure that everything is consistently fresh."

The Mustard Green Soup mixed with spinach and parsley proved to be the most nourishing and somewhat spicy elixir. The multiple greens are blanched, pureed to order, and mixed with chicken stock and a touch of cream. Sprinkle in a few garlic croutons for a crunchy and velvety taste. Pair with Montaudon Brut Champagne, Reims France.

The Ahi Tuna Tartar corresponds nicely with thinly sliced watermelon radish, cucumbers, a pinch of grey sea salt, dill weed, and a dollop of crème fraiche with caviar. Seasoned bruschetta crisps are the perfect accompaniment. Pair with Domain Fevres Chablis 2006, France.

The Salad of Maine Lobster is a rich presentation of avocado and papaya nestled carefully on a bed of baby lettuce, curly endive, and arugula. Succulent pieces of lobster are boiled, chilled over ice, and added to the salad minutes before serving. A smooth and creamy lemon dressing is drizzled throughout with a sprinkle of fresh dill weed for a burst of flavor resembling caraway. Pair with Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, Casablanca Valley, Chile.

The Crusted Cod is a mild tasting fish rolled in breadcrumbs with a hint of wholegrain-mustard and horseradish. It is seared on both sides and baked in an oven to a moist texture, served with steamed and finely chopped cucumbers. The addition of dill weed provides the final enhancing touch. Pair with Oliver Leflaive, Bourgogne Les Sétilles 2006, France.

The Loin of Veal made Wiener schnitzel style is my personal favorite. Veal loin is delicately pounded until only slightly thin and rolled in eggs, salt, pepper, flour, and homemade breadcrumbs. It is lightly fried in a bit of oil and butter. The masterful and colorful addition of tart caperberries, parsley, and lemon butter with a side of spinach sautéed in garlic and olive oil makes for a salty and tangy affair. Pair with Patz & Hall Chardonnay 2006, Napa Valley.

Seared and juicy slices of duck breast are delicious when matched with braised red cabbage and sweet huckleberry sauce, and further accented with spices of sage and nutmeg. A small serving of foie gras that was nestled atop the duck meat was delightful as it was seared to a flawlessly tender consistency with a crispy external layer. Pair with T. Solomon Wellborn Pinot Noir 2004, Santa Barbara County.

A sweet, yet spicy ensemble of crisp apple, ligonberries, cacao-juniperberry sauce, and cracked black pepper envelops the pan-seared Venison Loin. The highlight of a small helping of homemade spätzle resembling tiny and fluffy egg noodles is a mouth-watering tribute to Woesle’s German heritage. Pair with Laird Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Napa Valley.

The Apple Strudel is a standout dessert. The homemade crust is stretched by hand, making for a buttery and flaky outer shell. A filling of apples, cinnamon, sugar, currants, and almonds is baked and served warm with a decadent drizzle of caramel sauce. Of course, a vanilla bean ice cream melts heavenly alongside. Really, there are no words to describe this except for "last-dessert-on-earth" good. (858/756-3085,
www.millefleurs.com) — Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal


A Few Words With Chef Martin Woesle

Style of Cooking:
International Cuisine with a European Flair

Birthplace: Germany.

Education: Chef’s school in Germany, where I received the highest ranking.

Favorite wine: Krug Champagne.

Most desired travel destination:
South America.

Favorite chocolate: Belgian chocolate.

Favorite food: Caviar.

Spice you can’t live without:
Caraway seeds.

Herb you like to use most:
Organic dill weed from Chino Farms.

Hobbies:
Playing tennis and riding a motorcycle.

Favorite exotic fruit: Passion fruit.

What do you like best about working at Mille Fleurs? The food is always consistent day in and day out. I love it!

 


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