Dining Out: Vivace

Early last month, I dined at Spago in Beverly Hills and indulged in my annual tradition — Wolfgang Puck’s decadent truffle cheese pizza. I also ate at Pastis and Campanile, both considered to be among the best restaurants in Los Angeles.

Late last month, I dined at Vivace, the flagship restaurant at the Four Seasons Resort Aviara, and, believe it or not, I liked it better. Let’s be clear, I liked my meal better; it would be unfair to compare the dining rooms at Spago or Campanile or the sexy, hypnotic atmosphere of L.A. in general to almost anything else anyway, but I can easily say that chef Bruce Logue and his team are producing some top-notch cuisine that can rival any big city menu.

Logue, who was recently acquired by Aviara, comes hot off the stoves at Mario Batali’s highly esteemed Babbo in New York City. There, he spent the past three years working alongside the Iron Chef himself, serving as Batali’s sous chef.

The chef describes his cuisine as interpretative Italian and what he means by that is that it’s his take on Italian. “I’m not Italian and don’t make any claim that each component of my dishes is authentic,” he says. Logue’s flavors, though, are both traditional and authentic, and very inventive.

The meal began with warm Bread and Cie Ciabatta bread served with an artisan olive oil from Sonoma. Although I did enjoy the flavor, the oil was overly herbaceous for me and a bit overpowering, so I switched to ice-cold creamy unsalted butter. No worries, olive oil came into play several times throughout the evening and worked beautifully.

The antipasti menu offers a wide variety of small plates with several of those being outstanding choices. The Tuna Crudo, Red Onion-Marjoram Aïoli, Chilled Cucumber Brodo was a light and refreshing starter. In this dish, minced raw (crudo) tuna in the shape of a drum sits in a delicious cucumber broth and is accented with smooth avocado and red onion aioli.

The chef then sent out a dish called Brodetto Siciliano, tender calamari in a mild tomato broth with pine nuts, currants, toasted garlic, and caper berries. The calamari was amazingly tender and the tomato broth exceptional.

Logue buys his salumi (cured meats) from Batali’s father, Armandino, who has a salumi shop in Seattle, and he presents a wonderful selection of these on the Vivace Salumi Plate. That alone, with a couple glasses of Chianti and that great Ciabatta would be a perfect winter meal.

Try the smoked tomato soup if you can; it has a deep-smoky flavor and is finished with a dollop of warm burrata mozzarella. Burrata is made with cows’ milk and has a soft creamy center that oozes out when bitten into. The soup is finished with a drizzle of Sicilian olive oil.

Talk about an innovative palate cleanser — for the intermezzo, the chef served Meyer lemon sorbet topped with a drizzle of Sicilian olive oil and sea salt. It was a wonderful surprise.

My favorite dish of the evening was fresh California sturgeon wrapped in procuitto, roasted and served over a bed of cannellini beans and braised escarole. The fish was moist, perfectly cooked, and picked up the wonderful smoked flavor of the procuitto.

Desserts are housemade and are of the same high quality and creativity seen with the earlier courses. Try the Caramellissimo if you dare. It’s a brulee-type creation served in the most darling porcelain pentola.

Vivace is open for dinner nightly at 6pm. Reservations are strongly recommended. (760/603-6300) — Paisley Wood

Chef Profile: Susan Sbicca
What are you currently reading?
Holiday catalogs...umm, mostly magazines…no time for long mental breaks…
In your opinion, what is the best cookbook ever written?
The Elements of Taste by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky.
What is your very favorite food?
Depending on the time of day...truffles, the perfect avocado…cookies.
Favorite Restaurant?
I love Boulevard in San Francisco. Nancy Oakes is an outstanding chef. I order anything and everything.
How often and what kinds of things do you cook at home?
Once or twice a week, usually something simple…my husband says I cook “too fancy.”
Name things that are always in your refrigerator?
Vanilla, soy milk, eggs, tortillas.
And in your pantry?
Olive oil, vinegars, sea salt.
Who were you in love with in high school?
Rudolf Nureyev and Mick Jagger.
What would you be if you weren’t a chef?
An architect, or a singer.
What kind of music do you listen to?
Alternative mostly…jazz…Sarah Vaughn, Joni Mitchell, I could go on and on…
What do you do when you’re not working?
Garden, art, watch television, and relax.
If you could cook with any chef from any restaurant in America, who would it be and what would you cook?
Judy Rodgers from Zuni Café in San Francisco. I would cook something pure and delicious, a great steak maybe…I love her passion and confidence.
What is one thing that people would never guess about you?
That I studied to be an opera singer.

Renowned Restaurant Draws A Crowd
When it opened in New York City in the 1920s, it was a little restaurant that caught the eye of the surrounding newspaper offices. But, being the 20s, money was scarce, and so the ownership cut deals with many of the publishing patrons, exchanging meals for exclusive cartoons and witty copy on the walls. Oftentimes, the cartoons would portray the patrons themselves. It wasn’t long before having one’s face on the wall at The Palm was synonymous with both stature and friendship. And it wasn’t long before the patrons decided steaks should be on the menu. Owner John Ganzi happily obliged, running up the street to the local butcher and cooking the steaks to order.

Since then, The Palm — still family owned — has extended across the country. Their newest location, the second largest in America, opened last month on Sixth and J near Petco Park, its walls already covered with replications of the original cartoons as well as some notable local faces. The two-floor, multi-room location offers a fun, yet quality, dining experience including a generous bar with flat screen TVs sure to draw the baseball crowd.

“The Palm is a great addition to the entire city of San Diego,” says co-owner and CEO Wally Ganzi. “ It’s first class beyond belief. Our menu has been passed down from generation to generation. We can’t wait to become a part of the community.”

The jumbo Nova Scotia Lobster is their other claim to fame. But if you can’t find something on the menu you like — which is hard to believe — just refer back to the anecdote about the steaks. (619/702-6500, www.thepalm.com) — Ryan Thomas

San Diego Restaurant Cookbook
Coinciding with San Diego Restaurant Week, famed chef and restaurateur Ingrid Croce just released the San Diego Restaurant Cookbook, which showcases more than 300 prize-winning recipes from the city’s finest chefs, many of which will actually be featured during Restaurant Week. “This book is dedicated to the diverse group of daring restaurateurs who have placed their hearts and their fortunes on the line, to build our city’s exciting and vibrant dining scene,” explains Croce. “Particular appreciation is also given to the diners who have visited our San Diego restaurants throughout all our diverse communities.” In addition, Ranch & Coast’s very own food editor, Terryl Gavre, contributed her efforts, as Croce notes, “My dear friend, food writer, fellow restaurateur, and multi-tasker extraordinaire, Terryl Gavre, deserves enormous credit for interviewing restaurant owners and chefs and writing several of the personal stories that appear in the [book].” (www.sandiegorestaurantcookbook.com) — Mia Stefanko

Indulgence Bakery
With the holidays now behind us, there is still a way to indulge the taste buds without guilt. Consider substituting butter for a vegan margarine that contains no trans fatty acids, or sweetening baked goods with natural sweeteners like fruit juices. For the culinary impaired, Indulgence Bakery in San Diego offers classic American cuisine in a healthful way by using the freshest and most natural ingredients. Committed to offering an assortment of sugar free and low carbohydrate options for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, Indulgence Bakery prides itself on providing better food choices. Ideal for diabetics or those following low carb plans, sugar, white flour, and butter are eliminated from all products. Healthy does not mean boring, though, as everything from quiches to burgers to lasagna, and a wealth of dessert options, are available. (619/299-3404, www.indulgencebakery.com) — Mia Stefanko

Koi Lounge
Joining the list of noteworthy lounges in La Jolla is Koi Lounge, adjacent to Zenbu on Fay. Its preview opening was a fundraiser for SAY (Social Advocates for Youth) San Diego, but the benefit that evening for attendees was the endless sushi served by Zenbu’s chef, Tim Johnson, from a sushi bar set up just for the occasion. In the future, though, customers will have to go next door for sushi as just drinks are served at Koi Lounge. — Nanette Martin

Michelin Takes On Manhattan
Move over ZAGAT, here comes the Michelin man. Savvy travelers to Europe have been looking to the famed Michelin Guide to direct them to the country’s leading restaurants and hotels for more than 80 years. Recently, the esteemed French company released their first U.S. guide, Michelin Guide New York City 2006, which features 500 reviews of the Big Apple’s top and trendiest eateries and prices out at $16.95. (www.michelintravel.com) — Paisley Wood

Drinks of the Month
We all know about vodka tonics and rum and Cokes — but there are a wealth of fun and festive cocktails out there waiting to be sampled. January’s cocktail of the month, Megan’s Key Lime Martini, was selected by Dan Sbicca of Sbicca and Meritage restaurants. To make it, you simply need: 2.5 oz Absolut Vanilia vodka, 1 oz pineapple juice and 0.5 oz Rose’s lime juice. Shake and serve in a chilled martini glass. — Jane Shiomi 

This Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley winery, William Hill, gets high marks for its subtle aromas of cassis, currant, and raspberry. With a polished texture and earthy body, it’s the perfect pairing for roasted meats, especially dishes including the earthy flavors of mushrooms. (www.williamhill.com) — Alicia Garcia

San Diego Restaurant Week
It’s no secret that San Diego’s close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, Mexico, and wine country, paired with its Mediterranean-style agriculture, has bred a rich diversity of culinary options. From January 15 through 20, the second annual San Diego Restaurant Week will allow diners to celebrate and sample some of the region’s finest dining — from George’s at the Cove to Mille Fleurs, and everything around and in between — at a fraction of the cost. Over 100 establishments will offer three-course prix fixed menus at $30 per person. Reservations are highly recommended, as this year’s event is sure to demonstrate why San Diego’s dining scene is rapidly becoming one of the nation’s hottest. (www.sandiegorestaurantweek.com) — Mia Stefanko

Winter Barrel Tasting
Wine lovers rejoice – the 2006 Winter Barrel Tasting is right around the corner. On January 28 and 29, the Temecula Valley Wine Growers Association will host a festive two-day wine and food pairing, which will provide samples of vintages from previous harvests, most served right from the barrel, and in many cases by the winemakers themselves. Participants will receive souvenir wine glasses and other goodies, and will have the opportunity to visit 20 wineries, each offering complementary foods. Tickets are $80 per person, and a discounted $60 ticket is offered for designated drivers. (800/801-WINE, www.temeculawines.org) — Jane Shiomi