T-13 and T-40 in sheep paddock at Grasmere Station

On The Trail Of Monsieur Bugatti

Until I married into a family of classic car enthusiasts, I thought everyone went to France to eat great food, hang out in wonderful galleries, and admire the picturesque countryside. However, I soon learned that - to people like my husband and his brothers - La Republique's real claim to fame lies in the fact that it is home to the world's largest collection of Bugatti automobiles. Le Patron, as Ettore Bugatti is known, built his exquisite cars in Molsheim in Alsace Lorraine from 1909 until 1939, and - I am regularly assured - they have never been equaled.

Forget Paris. We landed in Frankfurt and made a beeline for the French border. Just west of Strasbourg, I could sense my husband, Richard's, pulse quickening. Actually, I got quite excited, too, as we approached Molsheim and saw medieval fortifications and a beautiful Gothic church. Turns out Ettore built his cars in a charming French village, which today has a population of about 7,000 and, best of all, no visible tourist industry.

We checked into the Hotel Bugatti (of course) and wandered through the 16th-century market square dominated by a beautiful town hall and traditional clock tower. During dinner in the Old World atmosphere of Caveau de la Metzig, it occurred to us that Bugatti - who was born in Milan, but lived in Molsheim most of his life - quite probably also dined in this historic building with its stone walls and Roman arch.

In the morning, we introduced ourselves at the Mus?e Chartreuse, home of the Bugatti Fondation, and spent the next several hours studying archived photos of the Bugatti family, the early cars, and their daring drivers. Le Patron eschewed track racing, preferring to test the mettle of his creations on the open road. His preeminence was established in 1921 when his cars finished in the first four places of the Brescia Grand Prix. He continued road testing even after his son Jean was killed when he swerved to avoid a drunken postman on a bicycle. I began to understand the devotion that this man and his marque inspire.

The Bugatti Fondation's exhibits are cultural - the hardware is stored 60 miles to the south in the city of Mulhouse. The Route des Vins connects the two places, but tasting wasn't on our agenda. Instead, we drove non-stop to Mecca: the French National Motor Museum. Here, 450 cars are displayed in a space the size of four contiguous football fields. Of these vehicles, 122 are Bugattis. I was impressed, and Richard was nearly beside himself.

The vast room was a sea of blue, the traditional French racing color. Signage was limited, but an excellent audio guide put each vehicle in historical and technical perspective. It also provided a fair amount of auto trivia that kept me entertained when I reached the point where my eyes started to glaze over. Did you know that Mr. Rolls and Mr. Royce created the flying lady hood ornament because they intensely disliked the "vulgar" creations people were putting on their cars? One American, who'd made his fortune in meat, stuck a silver sausage on his new RR and nearly sent Charles and Henry into cardiac arrest.

Mulhouse lacked the charm of Molsheim, but we did have a great meal at an outdoor caf? in the Place de la R?union, which is the heart of the old city. Night lights on the Saint Etienne Temple added to the romantic atmosphere. The four-star Le Parc Hotel, with its art deco interior, provided us with more than comfortable lodgings. While my enthusiasm for the cars wore out after our first day in Mulhouse, I appreciated that Ettore had led us off the beaten path in France. Prior to this visit, I had spent time in Paris and along the Riviera, and it was fun to experience real places with very few other overseas visitors.

The same thing happened in New Zealand. When we went on a Bugatti rally around the South Island, I saw places that were new to me. When researching travel guidebooks and articles, I focus on the sites of most interest to international travelers. However, this event was designed to be fun for experienced drivers in cars with exceptional road-holding capability. The rally route from Christchurch to Dunedin, for instance, was not on truck-clogged Highway 1, but on series of secondary country lanes with up close and personal views of rolling green pastures dotted with fluffy white sheep.

I drove a support vehicle - a brand new Mazda SUV, and Richard piloted a 1924 Type 13 Brescia. Straight roads were no problem, but he and that little blue car left me in the dust on hills and curves.

More than once, I was reminded of a quote from Le Patron: When a customer had the audacity to query his use of cable-operated brakes, the artist-cum-car manufacturer replied, "Monsieur, I make my cars to go, not to stop." The 10-day rally drew 21 cars from Europe, the U. K., North America, and Australasia, and it didn't take long for new acquaintances to become friends. At one point Richard and the Italians he was following missed a turn and found themselves on someone's farm - for which they were teased unmercifully.

"So there's something else to thank Ettore for," I said to myself. "Wonderful shared experiences."

We'll see many of our Bugatti friends next month at the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance (www.pebblebeachconcours.net). This annual event draws car enthusiasts from all over the world. This year, Delahaye and Voisin are the featured marques, but many Bugattis are also entered, including my sister-in-law's Type 43.

I can still remember when I thought the best reasons to visit Pebble Beach included the 17-Mile Drive, playing golf, and rugged ocean views.

But that was before I met Monsieur Bugatti.
- Elizabeth Hansen, photography by Adams/Hansen Photography

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Himalayan Hopefuls
The Himalayas are getting their first ski resort, and possibly the Winter Olympics. The Himalayan Ski Village (HSV) is the project of Alfred Ford, the great grandson of Henry Ford, and his childhood friend John Sims. "We plan to open in the winter of 2008. This will provide the ideal opportunity for showcasing our facilities to the delegates attending the Commonwealth Games (in Delhi in 2010). They can then lobby with their Olympic committees as and when India bids for the Winter Olympics," says Sims. The $300 million project will be a five-star resort located in the Kullu Valley. Spread over a 100-hectare plot, HSV will comprise 700-plus hotel rooms of four-, five-, and seven-star classes, 300 villas, and 150 condominiums, in addition to numerous shops, restaurants, and luxurious spa facilities. There will also be a 2,000-capacity convention center, a handicrafts market to showcase the work of local artisans, a theatre complex, and a gondola that takes visitors up to 14,000 feet. (himalayanskivillage.com) - Ann Radcliffe