Dungeness Crab Salad, Carrot and Fennel, Pomelos, Orange, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil by executive chef Samuel Geffroy of Tapenade Restaurant in La Jolla

Let The Chef Decide
When I visit a restaurant, I am constantly asking the question, "What is your signature dish?" Some chefs believe it is the entire menu. But for most, it is usually one or two special creations that are either passed down from grandma, resembles chicken but is really something I can’t pronounce, or has funny looking plant life sticking out of it that is — yes — edible. In all seriousness, if you are open to trying new things, and get pleasure from all things culinary, opting for a signature dish can be a real learning experience. Not only that, it means not having to spend countless minutes trying to pick and choose. Some La Jolla chefs make it easy for you to give their beautiful signature dishes a try without having to ask any questions.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal



JULY RECIPES


Crispy Skin Nova Scotian Artic Char by culinary partner Hans-Trevor Gossman
of Blue Coral Seafood & Spirits in La Jolla

Ingredients for the curry sauce:
1/4 lb unsalted butter
2 cup scrap fennel bulb diced
1 cup fuji apples chopped
1 cup onion chopped
2 rib celery chopped
1 cup garlic crushed
1 bunch fresh basil chopped
1 bunch fresh cilantro chopped
3/4 oz fresh ginger crushed
11/2 tsp saffron powder
6 fl oz curry powder
3 cup Lobster Broth - 05/25/07
6 fl oz mango chutney
1/2 tsp serrano chili seeded and diced
6 fl oz pernod
4 cup Chablis wine
1 gal cream

Sweat vegetables and herbs in butter in a heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium heat until tender. Add saffron, curry powder, and lobster broth and mix well with a spoon. Deglaze with pernod and cook until liquid has almost evaporated. Add wine and chutney and reduce to demi sec. Add cream and bring to a scald, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until sauce coats the back of a spoon. Blend with a vertical mixer and pass through a fine chinoise. Chill to room temperature and then store in refrigerator.

Ingredients for the nicoise garnish:
8 oz yellow pear tomatoes halved
8 oz red pear tomatoes halved
6 oz caperberries stemmed
2 oz dry cured olives pitted
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp ground white pepper
1 cup micro blend herbs

Halve tomatoes by cutting lengthwise on the bias. Stem caperberries, but leave whole.
Pit olives and chop roughly. Combine tomatoes, caperberries, olives, oil, and seasonning, and mix well. (This mixture will keep for 48 hours in a tightly covered container in a cool location.) Combine 4 parts tomatoe mixture with 1 part herb blend. Gently mix. Each portion is @ 1 ounce by weight.

To finish the dish:
8 oz Arctic char
11/2 fl oz curry sauce
1/2 oz unsalted butter
2 oz nicoise garnish
1 tsp fresh chives chopped

Preparation:
Trim and portion char into 8-oz portions. Score skin in "X" scores. Heat saute pan over medium-high heat. Pan sear char, skin side down, in clarified butter for 1 minute. Finish cooking in a pre-heated 350 degree oven. Heat sauce and mount with butter. Spoon onto the center of a warm dinner plate. Remove char from oven, and using a spatula, flip Char over onto sauce (skin side up). Garnish plate with nicoise garnish and chopped chives.
Serve immediately.



Summer Melon Salad by executive chef Judd Canepari at The Sky Room
at La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla

Ingredients for the dressing:
1 medium shallot
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 cup grape seed oil
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
1 pinch of sugar
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
Prepare a sheet pan for the shallots with a coat of non-stick olive oil spray. Slice the shallots very thin and place on the sheet in rows. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Roast the shallots until they are toasted and dry. Combine the sherry vinegar, Dijon Mustard and pinch of sugar in a blender for 45 seconds. Continue blending the mixture and slowly add the oil until it is an emulsion. Finally, add the shallots and blend until the desired texture is reached.

Ingredients for the salad:
2 slices watermelon cut into desired shape
2 slices yellow melon
2 medium heirloom tomatoes (use whatever heirloom is available at the local market) *must be room temperature
4 oz Humboldt Fog goat’s milk blue cheese
1 oz toasted candied almonds
1 bunch frisee
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
Slice the yellow melon and watermelon into desired shape and place in stacks on the plate. The melon will serve as a base for the salad. After washing and drying the frisee, add a splash of dressing and toss to coat the greens. Place the frisee over the stacked melon. Place the sliced heirloom tomatoes on the plate, near the melon and frisee. Finally, crumble the Humboldt Fog cheese and sprinkle over the tomatoes and melon frisee stack. Drizzle the shallot dressing over the tomatoes and cheese, and dust with almond crumbles. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and garnish with any edible flower.

Serves 2



Seared Wild Salmon with Asparagus, Potato Puree, and Champagne Beurre Blanc by executive chef/owner Barbara Beltaire at
Barbarella in La Jolla

Crispy Skin Nova Scotian Arctic Char by culinary partner Hans-Trevor Gossman of Blue Coral Seafood & Spirits in La Jolla
Summer Melon Salad by executive chef Judd Canepari at The Sky Room at
La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla
Timeless Tradition
Since 1941, The Marine Room has been praised by critics and friends alike as one of La Jolla’s favorite dining destinations. Nestled just inches from the blue Pacific in an unparalleled waterfront setting, a charming blend of refined professionalism is balanced with in-depth culinary fare served at its flawless finest.

Together, chef Bernard Guillas and chef de cuisine Ron Oliver offer globally inspired favorites, keeping a careful eye out for the finest quality local and seasonal ingredients. "Chefs are like scientists, artists, and magicians," Guillas says. "A good cook is a sorcerer who dispenses happiness on a plate."

I was instantly attracted to the Togarashi Plum Spiced Kobe Beef Carpaccio appetizer. Lightly seared paper thin slices of raw, marbled beef are accompanied by an intensely sharp, gouda-like Roomano cheese and matched with a tiny square of sugary Espelette guava paste. Build a perfect bite with a handful of tiny cocoa nibs, a small tuft of watercress, and Carob Vincotto. Pair with Teawa Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand.

Fresh from the sea, the Almond Gooseberry Crusted Arctic Char is a colorful pink-fleshed fish that tastes like a cross between its trout and salmon relatives. It is seared until moist and tender, thankfully preserving the omega-3 fatty acids. Contiguous edibles are the epitome of natural sophistication — Half Moon Bay organic spring peas, Boudin Blanc Kumquat Mochi Rice, and Micro Mint Salad. "Organic is healthy and contains the nutrients for your body and soul," says Guillas. "My philosophy is from the farmer to the kitchen to the guest." Pair with La Chablisienne, Grande Cuvée, Chablis Premier Cru, 2002.

Believe it or not, wild game is a great special occasion or everyday alternative for a healthy lifestyle. According to Guillas, free-range wild game meat that is hormone and antibiotic free makes for some of the purest, most nutritious meat available. The Organic Game consists of an unbelievably tasty trilogy of elk, antelope, and venison with maple boniato timbale, trio of chutney, white asparagus, and chocolate liquorice Shiraz. Pair with Jocelyn Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004, Napa Valley.

My pick for the night was the Galangal Kalbi Glazed Pompano. The pompano is organically farm-raised and considered a prized delicacy around the world. Seared and polished with a shiny kalbi Korean glaze, it is light, yet dense, nestled atop a tangy and juicy tangerine emulsion. An intensely aromatic mélange of sesame, garlic, and ginger mixed with Asian crab risotto, honshimeji, and dragon (star) fruit, is gracefully layered between pompano fillets. Pair with Blind Trail Pinot Noir, 2003, Central Otago, New Zealand.

Move over crème brulée. The Redwood Hill Goat Cheese Brulée is listed as an appetizer, but makes for an ideal dessert choice. Utterly whipped and fluffy, it resembles its predecessor, with just a hint of goat cheese and a crackly caramelized sugar topping. Complemented by organic greens, malted fig jam marmalade, pecan tuile, and tupelo verjus vinaigrette, it is sure to satisfy any sweet tooth without too much guilt.

Don’t get me wrong. The drama of chocolate is forever magical. The presentation of three temptations in The Study on Chocolate is superb, and made me an eager student. The Spicy Mayan Cocoa Nibs Gelato is a tiny, yet rich, scoop of velvety Italian ice cream that actually contains a special blend of chilis. At the center of it all, the mixture of crispy crushed wafers in a hard, yet creamy Gianduja Chocolate Crunch is heavenly. Lastly, the Griotte Cherry Pot De Crème is a silky, chocolate custard-like concoction, resting unembellished in a colorful little bowl, topped with cherries and a fresh sprig of mint. Need I say more? (866/644-2351, www.marineroom.com)
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal


A Few Words With
Chef Bernard Guillas

Style of Cooking: Global cuisine rooted
in the French classics.

Birthplace: I was born on the Island of Jersey in the township of St. Helier, England and grew up in Brittany, France.

Hobby: Fly fishing in Montana — catch and release of course. And don’t forget to kiss the trout before letting it go.

Favorite junk food: M&M’s — all colors.

Favorite fruit: Dragon fruit —
so sexy and delicious.

Do you cook fancy meals for yourself at home? My barbecue is my friend. I roast, grill, and steam. It does it all.

Food Network mentors: I love Julia Child and Jacques Peppin — the old guard and the core of the new American-French cooking.

 


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