Despite a scattering of media reports over the years, most consumers don't give much thought to the recognized allergens, probable carcinogens, hormone disrupters, and inadequately tested industrial chemicals in the perfumes, nail polishes, shampoos, and other personal-care products lining the shelves of drugstores, department stores, and specialty retailers. However, this seemingly well-kept industry secret has been on the radars of consumer and environmental groups, as well as concerned doctors and scientists, for years.

So, who is responsible? Who is regulating the cosmetics and personal-care industry and looking out for consumer safety? The cosmetics industry will direct you to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the FDA will direct you to the Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) panel, and the CIR will gladly tell you about all the wonderful research they are doing in the name of safety to keep consumers happy and healthy. But don't count on being reminded that they're funded by the very companies whose ingredients and products must pass their review board prior to entering the consumer market.

Safe As Directed?
According to Clinique brand representative Darin Stechman, "Product safety has always been a top priority at Clinique Laboratories, and is ensured through state-of-the-art testing methods." However, this testing, according to Stechman, does not include tests that establish the long-term toxicity potential, carcinogenic properties, systemic absorption properties, or chronic effects of daily use. Instead, cosmetics companies focus their research and both animal and human trial tests on assessing pre-marketed products for allergenic reactions and skin irritations.

As a result, according to Susan Roll of the Massachusetts Breast Cancer Coalition, "one-third of personal-care products contain ingredients classified as possible human carcinogens." The FDA is largely focusing its attentions elsewhere. Of the agency's $800 million annual budget, less than one percent goes toward regulating the cosmetics industry. Despite common public perceptions, neither the FDA nor any other government regulatory body actively assesses the safety of cosmetics before they go on your skin, your eyelashes, into your hair, or onto your lips.

According to FDA Consumer, "In 1994, FDA headquarters received approximately 200 reports of adverse reactions to cosmetics. Skin-care products and makeup accounted for about 65." Was the FDA able to pull these cosmetics from the market? No, because as FDA Consumer put it, "The agency can't do much about isolated allergic reactions or irritation problems. It's up to the individual to avoid the product that caused the reaction."

In fact, there's no law that regulates corporate use of phrases like "hypoallergenic," "allergy tested," "dermatologist tested," and "no animal testing." According to John E. Bailey, director of the FDA's Office of Colors and Cosmetics, "The term 'hypoallergenic' can mean almost anything to anybody," and the same is true for the other terms. In individual cases, the use of these claims might be backed up by substantial research, or they may not.

Not Too Pretty
Where can concerned consumers turn to get third-party health and safety information on cosmetics? The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has been dedicating untold hours since 2000 to compiling health and safety information for consumers on personal-care products. A quick visit to www.ewg.org will provide copious information about cosmetic dangers and lax regulation.

One EWG project of particular interest is the Not Too Pretty campaign, launched in 2002, which raises serious questions about the safety of phthalates (pronounced tha-lates). Phthalates are a large family of industrial chemicals used for their plasticizing properties in nail polishes and in dozens of plastic products, from shower curtains to food wrap; and for their scent-prolonging feature in fragrances. Numerous animal tests have linked high, prolonged doses of phthalates to serious harm, and some experts have cited phthalates as potential reproductive toxins and mutagens.

The cosmetics industry has heavily criticized EWG's work, but Lauren E. Sucher, a spokesperson for EWG, responds, "They haven't ever written us a formal letter pointing out any mistakes. If we're wrong we'd love to know, because it is in our interest to provide the public with accurate information."

On the other side of the Atlantic, the European Union (EU) has been working on its Cosmetics Directive, a regulatory action that requires European cosmetic companies and international companies marketing their products in the EU to eliminate chemicals in their products that are known or strongly suspected of being carcinogens, mutagens, or reproductive toxins. The directive bans 450 of the 5,000 ingredients (including phthalates) now readily available for use in cosmetic formulations.

In Sucher's opinion, concerned consumers may not even be asking the right questions. She explains, "The chemicals to look out for are not necessarily the most commonly used or even clearly listed." For example, phthalates are rarely named directly on packaging, and are frequently alluded to by the vague reference "fragrance." In fact, this single word can hide a blend of some 4,000 chemicals, and the vagueness is generally allowed in the interests of protecting companies' "trade secret" formulations.

Recently, under pressure from the EWG, the FDA has put the cosmetics industry on notice that it intends to begin enforcing a 1975 law requiring labels on products that contain ingredients that haven't been tested for safety (such testing is not required by law). This warning is supposed to read: "Warning: the safety of this product has not been determined." According to the EWG, this label remains to be seen on U.S. products, even though the group estimates 99 percent of the cosmetics products on the market contain one or more untested ingredients.

Natural Alternatives
A variety of companies are now making personal-care products based on more natural, and often organic, ingredients, paralleling the rise of the natural foods movement. But be forewarned: marketing claims may still be inflated. The debate over organic labeling of cosmetics also continues to rage on.

In August, the USDA reversed a previous ruling and will now allow cosmetics, among other products, to carry the distinctive green organic seal as long as all the federal requirements are met. In recent years, a variety of products made from more natural, plant-based ingredients have been widely available from such companies as Aveda, Aubrey Organics, Earth's Beauty, Ecco Bella, Grateful Body, Jakar?, Nature's Gate, TerrEssentials, and Dr. Bronner's.

"It's up to you to be a conscious consumer," concludes Sucher. Read labels carefully and skeptically. If you do suffer a reaction to a product, report it to the FDA's Office of Cosmetics and Colors, Cosmetic Adverse Reaction Monitoring Program (202/205-4706).

Buying cosmetics can be like a trial-and-error experience. But if enough of us make our concerns about safety known, maybe shopping for cosmetics will one day become less of a daunting - and potentially dangerous - affair.

Where To Begin
If you're interested in making the move to more natural skin-care products and makeup lines but don't know where to begin, here are a few noteworthy options and a little bit about each one.

Embracing the movement locally, Dianne York-Goldman of La Jolla Spa MD and Valerie Youngblood, MD of the Continuum Center have both launched their own lines that contain antioxidants and vitamins to protect, nourish, and give skin a youthful, healthy glow.

Youngblood affirms, "Recently, there has been an increase in the number of consumers that are educating themselves on the effects of harsh chemicals, and based on their findings, many have decided that products with organic or natural ingredients will help them to achieve healthy and radiant skin." The Continuum Skin Therapy line contains natural healing ingredients such as liposomal vitamin A, C, E, Co-Q10, and green tea extracts to nourish and balance the skin. (858/642-1838, www.continuumcenter.com)

York-Goldman's triple-milled mineral makeup line, DYG, contains anti-bacterial ingredients and essential vitamins that diminish fine lines and wrinkles without clogging pores, while also containing SPF agents to offer protection from the sun. (858/459-6868, www.dygcosmetics.com)

Based in Oceanside, Bonicca, is an organic spa collection that was launched in August 2005 by Oscar Cabot and his wife, Kimberly. Oscar, a Barcelona native who appreciates the old-world quality that is the foundation for the European marketplace, found that upon moving to the U.S. he was missing the organically-farmed ingredients and natural products he was used to in Europe. After nearly two years of development, the Cabots established a line of professional quality moisturizers, cleansers, and body treatments that use 100 percent vegetarian ingredients including jojoba, green tea, Dead Sea and mineral salts, oat, apple, and coconut, to name a few. Bonicca's standards also include no toxic chemicals, maximum use of organic ingredients, and no synthetic preservatives. (760/721-2084, www.bonicca.com)

Founded 20 years ago in Provence, France, Sanoflore is the largest French agricultural producer of organic plants, generating over 400 species of aromatic and medicinal plants that are then manufactured in-house by Sanoflore to create a wide range of products for face, body, hair, and anti-aging that are aromatic and rich in active ingredients. From cleansing milk to slimming cream, the three product categories - Balancing Skin Care, Face Care Treatment, and Body Care - are made up of floral waters instead of water, plant extracts, essential oils, and vegetal oils. "Organic skincare is more than a trend, it is a different way of living, of taking care of ourselves and avoiding the tar and coal chemicals that are dangerous for our health," says Sandie Jaidane, VP of product development for Sanoflore Organics. "It is a new generation of skin care, where beauty and well-being go hand in hand." Locally, Sanoflore is available at select Ulta stores. (011/33-475-764-660, www.sanoflore.net)

Larenim (mineral spelled backwards) was founded by Kirsten Corcoran, who found that the skin ailments she experienced in her youth were only worsened by everything she used to try to conceal her troubled complexion. "I researched makeup and ingredients, and found that talc, which is the basis of most makeup, expands the pore wall and is similar to asbestos in structure," she explains. "I found that 'oil-free' is designed to appeal to the trusting majority who don't understand that some of the man-made oil substitutes are even worse." Her continued research eventually drove her to create her own line of micronized mineral makeup that contains no oils, talc, fillers, parabens, or phthalates. (800/650-9575, www.larenim.com)

Glominerals is a mineral makeup line developed by Robin Silber-McGee, who had worked in the makeup industry for over a decade before she, along with a team of experts, created the line due to the belief that there could be an alternative that provides excellent coverage and UV protection. By also including antioxidants, vitamins C, A, K, E, and green tea extract, Glominerals prevents free-radical damage and improves the health and condition of the skin. Affirming that the line helps correct and protect while providing superior camouflage, McGee states, "Glominerals has given women a hip yet sophisticated makeup brand while still incorporating the nourishing and healthy attributes of mineral makeup." (888/496-8007, www.glominerals.com)

Arbonne, formulated in Switzerland and made in the U.S., offers skin care, makeup, hair care, aromatherapy, and nutrition products that are based on natural, botanical principles. All products contain no mineral oil, petroleum, phthalates, animal or human by-products, dyes, or chemical fragrances. Arbonne Baby Care (also mineral oil-free and nut oil-free) contains healing botanicals and pampers even the most sensitive skin. The makeup line features key ingredients including green tea, chamomile, ginseng, gingko biloba extract, aloe, and vitamin E, among others, that moisturize, condition, and rejuvenate the skin while adding color and contour. "I think what sets Arbonne apart from other skin care lines is the company's strong commitment to quality and integrity," says Krista McFadden, executive district manager for Arbonne. "It shows in the products they make and in their loyal customer base. The products are ideal to me because they not only give me the results I want, but they do so with pure and safe ingredients that I can feel good about using." (760/525-9319, www.shop.myarbonne.com)
- Shauna Dineen and Mia Stefanko