Cabo's Truly Pacifica Spa

In the world of travel promotion, exaggeration is an oft-used tool. "Fascinating" tours often turn out to be a bore; "unique" attractions rarely are; and "oceanfront" hotels are sometimes blocks from the beach. These overstatements are an occupational hazard for me. I wade through piles of press releases every day, separating the glimmers of truth from the gobs of hyperbole. Then I pack my suitcase and see if I was right.

I have to confess I wasn't sure what I'd find at Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Holistic Retreat & Spa. The resort opened in 2005 and the pictures looked great, but it was hard to believe that noisy Cabo could be home to someplace truly pacifica. The party place I remembered at the tip of the Baja peninsula was anything but peaceful, tranquil, and undisturbed.

My suspicions began to diminish as soon as I entered the property. Located ten minutes north of town in a gated development, the resort occupies a prime site on two miles of pristine beach.

In the elegant reception area, the fragrance of herbs emanated from onyx bowls filled with smooth stones, and large candles flickered on the perimeter of a shallow, round pool. "The elements of water, earth, wind, and fire help create a sense of well being," the porter explained.

All 154 rooms and suites at Pacifica come with balconies or patios, big blue ocean views, and sweeping vistas of the hotel grounds. The focal point is a round restaurant surrounded by a free-form pool. At the shallow end, beach chairs set in the water provide cool seating. I could also see another swimming pool, a large hydrotherapy pool, a swim-up bar, and something at the far end of the property that looked like an adobe igloo.

Upon closer inspection, this turned out to be a temazcal - think Mexican version of a Native American sweat lodge. Next to it, a labyrinth had been laid out with stones and sand, and nearby, several beach-view pavilions provide privacy for outdoor massage.

Adding to the beauty of the site, spectacular gardens of drought-tolerant plants are laid out in beds of raked sand. Aloe, cacti, kalanchoe, gazania, and bougainvillea are all artistically placed to form sweeping swaths of color. These are interspersed with lush green lawns. A fountain and a waterfall provide the soothing sound of running water. The end result is that Pacifica feels more like a private estate than a commercial hotel.

Nothing is allowed to intrude on this peaceful environment. Time-share salesmen, beach vendors, and mariachis are all kept well away. In addition, only children over the age of 16 are welcome.

The result is slightly soporific. Couples relax by the pool or on the beach, catch up on reading, and re-connect with themselves and each other. When they do stir, it's usually to walk to the spa for a massage or other body treatment.

In my case, I had studied the spa menu on Pacifica's Web site (www.pueblobonito.com) before leaving home and selected a Four Hand Massage. This two-person treatment is wonderfully relaxing when well done - strokes are synchronized and touch just right, so the 50 minutes were up before I knew it.

Other popular experiences include the Cactus Body Wrap, which involves an all-over mask made from cacti, jojoba, and damiana; the Watsu underwater massage; and the Obsidiana Sacred Stone Massage. It's hard to describe the effect of warmed, smooth stones applied to the body, but I can't think of a better way to loosen tense muscles.

In all, the Armonia Spa offers 20 different massages, seven facials, and over a dozen body wraps, scrubs, and polishes. A full-service salon is adjacent to the spa - that's where I enjoyed a 90-minute pedicure that included an herbal collar for my shoulders and the benefit of an electric massage chair. My only regret was that I hadn't brought my own polish.

The resort's fitness center got rave reviews from women I spoke with in the spa - both for the quality of the equipment and the cleanliness. However, I couldn't see spending time in a windowless room when the ocean view was so terrific.

Instead, I signed up for the morning "boga" (beach yoga) and Pilates classes, held in a cabana adjacent to the well-groomed beach. The instructors were good, and it was wonderful working out in the open air. At one point, a big white cruise ship went past, and at another, whales could be seen spouting offshore.

Of course, all this activity made me hungry, so I headed to Siempre, the round restaurant in the middle of the resort. Here, Mediterranean-style meals are served on a patio overlooking the pool and in the chic interior space.

The menu includes dishes that are ideal for weight watchers and plenty of choices for those who are feeling self-indulgent. For instance, at dinner I enjoyed roasted Chilean salmon one night and steamed parrot fish the next. Lasagna, rib-eye steak, and osso buco were some of the other options.

Guests who want to follow personalized diet and fitness schedule can consult with Alejandro Santander, the general manager of the resort. He'll work with Pacifica's chefs to create what you need. Just tell the reservation office you want to book the "Spa Package."

Or, you can be like John Travolta and Kenny Chesny. In 2005, a stay at Pacifica and a consultation with the GM was in the gift basket at the Academy Awards. Travolta and Chesny were two of the stars who visited (not together). But did they take advantage of the chance to chat about nutrition with Santander?

No way. They flaked out in the sun, enjoyed some spa treatments, and soaked up the truly pacifica surroundings.
- Elizabeth Hansen, photography by Adams/Hansen Photography

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The Sound Of Silence
One of the world's most exotic dining experiences isn't found in the cafes of Paris or the bustling, hip clubs of Los Angeles - it's in the middle of nowhere - in the heart of the Australian Outback, to be exact, at the Sounds of Silence Dinner.

Diners are whisked to a secluded clearing for Champagne and appetizers while taking in a once-in-a-lifetime sunset. Once the sun slips below the horizon, everyone is escorted back down to a group of tables laid out with linens, crystal, and china comparable to an upscale restaurant in the heart of any major city. The main course is a selection of Aussie favorites such as kangaroo, crocodile, and emu, accompanied by fresh salads and sides to create a delicious and one-of-a-kind palate.

After feasting on a luxury meal and enjoying a program of indigenous music, storytelling, and stargazing, comes the "sound of silence." Everyone, from the diners to the wait staff, becomes quiet. It's a silence so loud and complete it envelops you like a warm blanket on a cold night. (www.ayersrockresort.com.au/dining) - Aimee Cebulski