Alaskan Halibut Filet with Meyer Lemon Confit, Edamane, and Wild Mushrooms by executive chef Stephen Window at Roppongi Restaurant & Sushi Bar in La Jolla

You Are What You Eat
Big portions — bigger waistline. A healthy philosophy on food is simple — take time to relax and dine with family and friends, savoring "good eats, smaller portions." Believe it or not, it is possible to have zero guilt about indulging in tasty meals and getting full gratification from them. By fine-tuning your awareness to that inner voice that says, "I’m full," you will quickly realize that you can still take pleasure in a wider medley of morsels and be content with less. Opt for sharing a variety of appetizers or tapas, which is fun and gives you a chance to try something new. Optimally, light and healthy fare served up on a smaller plate makes this transition all the easier. Here, some local chefs pave the way.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal



JUNE RECIPES


Alaskan Halibut Filet with Meyer Lemon Confit, Edamane, and Wild Mushrooms by executive chef Stephen Window at Roppongi Restaurant & Sushi Bar in La Jolla

Ingredients:

4 7 oz. halibut fillets, thick cut
2 Meyer lemons, cut into 6 slices each
4 oz sugar
7 oz. rice wine vinegar
4 oz water
12 asparagus, trimmed clean
2 oz shiitake mushrooms, sliced
2 oz morel mushrooms, sliced
2 oz hon shimeji mushrooms, sliced
4 oz edamame, shelled
4 oz butter
1 each lemon juice
salt and pepper

Preparation: Season halibut with salt and pepper. Sear both sides in hot pan, finish in oven, cook to medium. Add butter to pan, place asparagus in pan. Sauté. Add mushrooms. Continue to cook until butter browns. Add lemon juice. Finish with shelled edamame. To cook Meyer lemon, place sliced lemons in pan with sugar water and rice wine vinegar. Cook over medium heat until lemons are wilted. Serve halibut on bed of lemon and asparagus. Spoon mushrooms and edamame over the top.

Serves 4



Dungeness Crab Timbale with Early Winter Citrus, Hearts of Palm,
and "O" Blood Orange-Infused Olive Oil by executive chef Wade Hageman
at Blanca Restaurant in Solana Beach

Ingredients for the Crab Timbale:
12 oz fresh Alaskan crab
1/2 cup Lemon mayonnaise, recipe to follow
1/2 cup hearts of palm, thinly sliced
1/4 cup red onion, finely diced
1/4 cup baby fennel, thinly sliced
2 grapefruit
2 oranges
2 blood oranges
2 tbsp candied zest, recipe to follow
juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp orange juice
1 tbsp minced parsley
salt and pepper to taste

Ingredients for the Lemon Mayonnaise:
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup Meyer lemon juice
2 cups canola oil
salt and pepper to taste

In a blender, combine whole egg and egg yolk with 2 tbsp Meyer lemon juice and a bit of salt. With blender on low, slowly add canola oil, while intermittingly adding the rest of lemon juice. Once the canola oil has been added to create the desired consistency of a rich, thick mayo, season with salt and pepper.

Ingredients for the Candied Zest:
zest of 2 grapefruit
2 oranges
2 blood oranges
2 limes
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

Combine sugar and water over heat to create a simple syrup. Once simple syrup has come to a boil, add the zest of grapefruit, oranges, blood oranges, and limes. Let simmer for 30 seconds and remove from heat. Strain zest and plunge into an ice bath. Once cooled, lay zest on paper towels and allow to dry. Once dry, roughly chop. Remember to reserve some zest for garnish.

Preparation for the Crab Timbale: Combine first 5 ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add lemon mayonnaise, fruit juices, candied zest, and parsley. Mix thoroughly and season with salt and pepper to taste.
To shape Timbale, use a stainless steel mold (we like the triangle shape) to form your salad. Whichever shape you’re using, remember to pack the salad very tightly, squeezing out most of the liquid. Slowly remove mold by pulling up on the mold and gently pushing down on the salad. Garnish salad with segments of grapefruit, oranges, and blood oranges, as well as any reserved candied zest.



Grape and Tomato Gazpacho with Pomegranate Foam by
executive chef/owner Pascal Vignau at Savory Casual Fare in Encinitas

Ingredients for the Gazpacho:

3 lbs ripe red tomatoes
20 oz seedless grapes
1/2 medium cucumber, peeled and seeded
1/2 medium red bell pepper
1/2 celery
2 garlic cloves
1 cup toasted croutons
2 tbsp red wine vinegar

In a high-speed, upright blender, add all the above ingredients and blend to creamy consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove from blender and strain if necessary. Chill for 1 hour.

Ingredients for the Pomegranate Foam:

2 cups whipped cream
2 cups pomegranate juice

Preparation: Pour juice into a saucepot. Reduce over low heat to syrup consistency, about 3/4 of volume. Cool. Whip the cream over ice bath until soft. Pour gazpacho into cappuccino cup and top off with whipped cream. Drizzle pomegranate extract and serve.

Chef’s note: If you want more grape flavor add more grapes. Champagne grapes also can be used.

Serves 6-8



Local Grapefruit and Avocado Salad by chef/proprietor
Carl Schroeder at Market Restaurant + Bar in Del Mar

Ingredients for the Banyuls Vinaigrette:

1/4 cup Banyuls vinegar
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 shallots finely minced
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp each chopped fresh chives, tarragon, and parsley
Maldon’s sea salt and pepper to taste

Ingredients for the salad:

1 Star Ruby grapefruit
1 Oroblanco grapefruit
3 ripe avocados
6 handfuls wild baby arugula
12 ounces good quality goat’s cheese
1/2 cup finely chopped pistachios
honey (for drizzling)
extra virgin olive oil (for drizzling)

Preparation: Pit, peel, and slice avocados into 1/2-inch segments. Peel and separate grapefruit segments.

In a medium-sized bowl lightly toss arugula and avocado in dressing. Be sure to gently toss the avocado to keep it from breaking. Arrange salad equally on six plates, alternating avocado and fruits over arugula.

Portion goat’s cheese into approximately 2-ounce portions. Roll in chopped pistachios and plate.

Prior to serving drizzle each salad with honey and extra virgin olive oil.
Sprinkle with Maldon’s sea salt.

Serves 6

Dungeness Crab Timbale with Early Winter Citrus, Hearts of Palm, and "O" Blood
Orange-Infused Olive Oil by executive chef Wade Hageman at Blanca Restaurant
in Solana Beach

Grape and Tomato Gazpacho with Pomegranate Foam by executive chef/owner Pascal Vignau at Savory Casual Fare in Encinitas
Local Grapefruit and Avocado Salad by chef/proprietor Carl Schroeder at Market Restaurant + Bar in Del Mar
El Bizcocho: Edible Art
Nestled in the beautiful Rancho Bernardo Inn, El Bizcocho restaurant is perched at the top of San Diego’s high-end dining scene. A dynamically appointed room juxtaposes lavish furnishings with a natural elegance to create an unforgettable experience, complete with an irresistible menu.

Chef de cuisine Gavin Kaysen is pioneering innovative and up-to-the-minute gourmet fare. It’s no wonder Kaysen has been chosen as one of Food & Wine magazine’s Best New Chefs for 2007. He is passionate about transforming traditional French food into edible works of art, dressed with the freshest, locally-grown seasonal ingredients. "The plate is my canvas," he says. "Each dish is its own original creation and I rarely plate the same meal twice."

I started with the smooth English Pea Soup. The vibrant color and fresh garden taste of pureed green peas, cream, and seasonings is the perfect choice for a light evening meal. I loved the French touch of a crab croquette gently floating untouched at the top. Tasty bits of crab are encased in a crispy breading, formed into a puffy little ball, and lightly fried. Pair with a bubbly glass of Piper Heidsieck Champagne.

The Langoustine is a mini-lobster wrapped in thin sheets of phyllo dough and deep-fried. It is crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside with a light and creamy mound of polenta and mascarpone cheese melting faithfully underneath. Pair with Gessami_ Gramona, 2005 Vendimia, a Penedés white wine with a floral style and a hint of sweetness.

I begged my mom to make me gnocchi while I was growing up, and now I make it for my family. It is a delicacy I crave — puffy pillows of flour and potatoes shaped into mini-dumplings. When I noticed the word gnocchi on the menu, I knew I was in for a treat. Then I saw the word fava, and it took me back to my father’s garden where I picked and shelled the bean pods before dinner. I absolutely fell in love with the Sweet Bread surrounded by fresh gnocchi and fava beans. I felt like I was in Italy and France at the same time. Pair with Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004, Napa Valley, for delicate hints of chocolate, black pepper, and spice.

The Lamb Loin cooked en sous-vide, a method that retains the meat’s natural moisture and juices, preserving its flavor, makes for a fork-tender cut. Petite lamb slices seared medium rare are carefully placed over cooked greens and drizzled with black truffle lamb jus. The addition of a warm goat cheese croquette on top of eggplant enhances the earthy taste of the lamb. Pair with Las Rocas Garnacha, 2004, Caltayud Spain, for a rustic taste of berries with a hint of spice.

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, dessert arrived. The Passion Fruit Consommé is a silky, cool, bright yellow soup, complete with the tiny black seeds from the passion fruit floating throughout. A Lemongrass Parfait placed front and center inside this juicy broth steals the show. With the texture of a velvety mousse whipped dense and fluffy, it’s no surprise that in French, parfait means "perfect," which is how you will regard this heavenly invention after just one bite. No need to pair this with any beverage, it’s fine all by itself.

I was so impressed with the credentials, confidence, and witty charm chef Kaysen portrayed, that I allowed him to decide what tasty morsels should come my way.

I have no regrets. I am certain his favorites might soon become your favorites, too. Bon Appetite. (858/675-8550, www.ranchobernardoinn.com)
— Maria Desiderata Montana,
photography by Vincent Knakal


A Few Words With
Chef Gavin Kaysen

Style of Cooking:
California Inspired French Cuisine

Birthplace: Minnesota.

How do you feel about being named
Food & Wine magazine’s Best Chef 2007?
Humbled, honored, and completely blown away.

Favorite junk food: Cheetos.

Favorite toy as a kid: I asked for an
easy-bake oven when I was six.

Favorite spice: Pepper.

What’s best about being a chef?
I love the ever-changing days.

Favorite place to relax: When do I relax?

Favorite bread: A beautiful baguette
with crispy ends.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
A storm chaser.

 


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