Captivating Cuisine — 1500 Ocean
Ideally located inside the historical Hotel Del Coronado, elegant is the only word to describe a signature restaurant that hits all the right upper-crust notes.
The dining room is extremely spacious, yet still maintains an air of intimacy and modern appeal while incorporating stunning views of the ocean and beach walk. I chose to dine in a little corner of the dining room that faces a cozy outdoor patio, providing a nice dappling of afternoon sun on the linen-topped tables. This is also an ideal place to toast the evening with a selection from a vast wine library that also highlights local vintners.
A diverse menu is influenced by the abundance of seasonally fresh foods, and chef de cuisine Brian Sinnott’s attention to detail is evident as he showcases thoughtfully composed plates full of robust ingredients. "I want guests to believe that the menu is well thought out and intelligent," says Sinnott. "After dining, I want them to say that they can’t wait to come back."
I could not resist starting with a pure Burrata cheese brought in by the Gioia Cheese Company, an Italian-style fromagerie based in L.A. Shaped like a miniscule purse, the contents are a mixture of heavy cream and stracciatella, "little rags" of soft mozzarella curds. The sweet and buttery lava-like center slowly oozes out onto the plate only to be met by a petite and colorful arrangement of roasted baby beets, blood oranges, and arugula. Pair with Besserat de Bellefon Brut Rose.
At first glance, the Roasted Spring Onion Soup proves utterly irresistible with its fresh green color. The delectable concoction of fennel, leeks, celery, green garlic, shallots, vegetable stock, cream, white wine, and thyme is superbly crafted. The ultimate garnish is a light and fluffy goat cheese tempura that floats naturally on top. Pair with Ceago Vinegarden Sauvignon Blanc, Clear Lake, 2006.
Attention to detail pays off with the Handmade Herbed Pappardelle made with parsley and grated truffle, rolled out and cut by hand. This perfectly al dente pasta, laced with bits of pancetta, hedgehog mushrooms, and sugar snap peas, is tossed with a rich morel beurre fondue made with morel mushroom stock, madiera, cream, and butter. Pair with Louis Roederer Champagne.
A spicy tomato shellfish broth adds an exceptionally tasty nuance to the braised tilefish from Baja. This mild-flavored and succulent fish is an unexpected treasure served in conjunction with a fluffy potato confit and robust chervil aioli. If that isn’t enough, the animated addition of red and yellow peppers makes this dish shine with taste and flare. Pair with Four Graces Pinot Noir, 2006, Napa Valley.
The Colorado lamb duo is a palate-titillating marriage of exquisitely seared slices of olive and herb-crusted lamb loin with a moist and tender shredded braised lamb shank. The earthy contrasts of textures are a match made in heaven balanced with a silky saffron pearl pasta and sautéed chard. Pair with Kinton Syrah 2005, Santa Barbara.
The grilled certified Angus rib eye is cut extra thick with the most satisfying accoutrement of olive oil-crushed fingerlings, which is a new-fangled potato salad made with bits of smoked bacon and stirred with olive oil instead of a traditional mayonnaise base. A side of crisp and bright green broccoli rabe or rappini, lightly sautéed in garlic, is such a personal favorite, I ordered an extra serving. Pair with Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003, Napa Valley.
I could not resist dessert on the new outdoor Sunset Bar next to a roaring fire pit. The warm Chocolate Chipotle Cake offers an intensely sweet panache of exalting treble flavors of spices, dark chocolate, and banana complemented by a velvety — smooth caramel ice cream that is so incomparably divine, it’s calling me back. (619/522-8490,
www.dine1500ocean.com) — Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal

A Few Words With Chef Brian Sinnott
Style of Cooking: New American, Seasonally Driven
Herb you use most: Chervil.
Favorite wine: After a hot night in the kitchen, definitely Champagne.
If you weren’t a chef what would you be? A private detective, but realistically probably a teacher.
Favorite kitchen tool: My Misono knives or the Vita-Mix blender.
Spice you can’t live without: Fennel seed.
Hobby: Baseball games and the beach.
Most desired travel destination: I’m Italian so Italy of course.
What’s best about being a chef in Coronado? The view!
Philosophy on organic: Important principle but sustainability guides me more.
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