Palm Springs — Desert Discoveries

After the hottest summer on record, it may seem unlikely that many San Diegans will seek the warmth of the desert this winter. However, what goes up must come down, and I’m guessing that sometime between now and spring, more than a few Ranch & Coast readers will head to the Palm Springs area. Places like Rancho Mirage, Palm Desert, and La Quinta offer welcome sunshine when the cloudy coast starts to feel like a perpetual cooling center.

In addition to good weather, the Palm Springs Desert Resorts provide a wide range of lodging and dining options. My husband, Richard, and I spent a week snooping around and made some interesting discoveries.

Smoke Tree Ranch was the most remarkable find. The gate to this private enclave is just off busy Highway 111 (East Palm Canyon Drive), but the 400-acre retreat feels a world away from SUVs and fast food. Smoke Tree’s story starts in 1936 when Los Angeles socialites Fred and Maziebelle Markham purchased the property. Already homeowners in Altadena and Balboa Island, they fell in love with the desert and particularly the gently rising alluvial fan now home to Smoke Tree. They envisioned a place where families could enjoy a Western lifestyle including rodeos, square dances, and trail rides, and invited like-minded people to join them.

Walt Disney purchased his first home at the ranch in 1948, seeking rest and relaxation from his expanding studio. Others followed, and today 85 homes make up the colony — many occupied by children and grandchildren of original "colonists." Over the years, guest cottages were built on the property for the convenience of homeowners and those they invited, but privacy remained paramount and the ranch a best-kept secret. However, in 2004, the decision was made to welcome a slightly wider range of visitors, and shortly thereafter, Robb Report named Smoke Tree Ranch one of "The World’s 10 Great Escapes."

Richard and I spent several days at Smoke Tree, and I found myself daydreaming about the wonderful family reunion I’m going to have there someday. We swam in the Olympic-size pool, tried croquet for the first time in years, and watched others lawn bowling and playing tennis. We also heeded the peal of the dinner bell and ate our meals in the Ranch House — the social center of the enclave.

In many ways, it’s still the 1950s at Smoke Tree Ranch. Multi-generation families share meals and conversation. (Cell phones are prohibited in the dining room.) Kids can safely ride their bikes all over the property. Holiday activities include bingo, bonfires, and barbecues. Much of nature’s original landscaping — desert shrubs, smoke trees, and wildflowers — remains undisturbed. The few contemporary concessions include king beds, large, well-appointed tile bathrooms, flatscreen TVs, and DVDs in the refurbished guest cottages.

We rented horses at Smoke Tree Stables (they also board if you bring your own steed) and made our way through the Agua Caliente Reservation, up to the Andreas Oasis, and across Murray Canyon. En route, we traversed a grove of California fan palms, ducked under huge granite shelves, and crossed four rocky streams. Cowboy Robert Gonzalez showed the way and kept us entertained with true tales of local bandits, settlers, miners, and Chinese railroad workers.

The ride was great fun. If you go, try to be there for one of their breakfast rides when a hot meal is served in the shade of Andreas Canyon. (www.smoketreeranch.com)

At the other end of the Coachella Valley, La Quinta Resort & Club is known for its golf and tennis facilities. Players have a choice of 23 courts — hard, clay, and grass — and a variety of group and individual lessons. In addition, five championship courses — 90 holes — challenge the gamest golfers. Most of the major tournaments have been held here at one time or another. Next up: the Bob Hope Chrysler Classic, January 15-21, 2007.

I’d heard about La Quinta, but — not being a golfer or tennis player — had never felt the need to visit. I now know what I’ve been missing. To begin with, the place is absolutely charming. Open since 1926, it positively oozes authentic Spanish hacienda style. Even though there are 800 guestrooms, the resort feels intimate because the casitas are clustered around 41 pools and 53 whirlpool spas. Each grouping feels like a little village, complete with adobe walls, hammocks, lawns, and gardens overflowing with colorful flowers. To top it off, the scent of citrus blossoms fills the air.

Winding paths lead to a central plaza with more flowers, several flowing fountains, three restaurants, and a handful of chic shops. Paths also lead to Spa La Quinta — and another discovery. This golf and tennis resort is also home to a large, full-service spa with 37 treatment rooms, seven private outdoor whirlpool baths, and four open-air celestial showers. I enjoyed an orange blossom body facial, which started with a Vichy shower and included exfoliation and massage. My therapist said that Trista and Ryan (of The Bachelorette fame) had been photographed here having a signature celestial shower, and she seemed incredulous when I told her I didn’t know who they were. (www.laquintaresort.com)

The bachelorette and her beau were also a hot topic at The Lodge at Rancho Mirage. In fact, it seems that everyone but us knows that this is where Trista and Ryan’s $4 million nuptials took place. (It’s not too late. The hotel is still selling wedding memorabilia.) Actually, I was more interested in the view. The Lodge sits on a mountain plateau overlooking the desert floor — in contrast to Smoke Tree Ranch and La Quinta, which offer views up to the mountains. The elegant décor of this former Ritz Carlton, including Waterford crystal chandeliers in the lobby, also set it apart. (www.rockresorts.com).

We had a very good meal at The Lodge at Rancho Mirage — not surprising given its reputation — but I didn’t expect to find exciting fare at the Hyatt Grand Champions Resort in Indian Wells. This 500-room property is known for its excellent spa, Agua Serena, its medical spa, and its fitness classes and facilities. It also has Camp Hyatt, a good program for kids. (www.hyattgrandchampions.com, www.medicalandskinspa.com)

Our dinner at the Hyatt’s Santa Rosa Grille started with tempura-style shrimp served with a ginger-shoyu glaze. Richard’s entrée, the pepper-crusted ahi tuna, was served with watercress, shiitake mushrooms, ginger, and wasabi butter. My herb-crusted seabass arrived with Israeli cous cous and grilled asparagus. The wait staff suggested — and we thoroughly enjoyed — the Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay from the Russian River.

I don’t know where Trista and Ryan dined in the desert, but I’m sure we had a better meal.
— Elizabeth Hansen, photography by Adams/Hansen Photography