Tea Smoked Duck with Cranberry-Orange Chutney by executive chef Jesse Frost
at Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa

Traditional Upgrade
Don’t get me wrong, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with those traditional Thanksgiving recipes passed down from Great Grandma, Betty Crocker, or Julia Childs. Oh, and don’t forget about that infamous Green Bean Casserole recipe taken straight off a Campbell’s soup can — a huge hit in my family, by the way. However, you may find that an inventive new creation is something worth adding to your recipe box. After all, change is good, and adding a new twist to an old standby may be just what the doctor ordered. Move over ancient favorites, an overhaul is about to occur. We’ve asked a few local chefs to give us their best shot at ingenuity and originality for some really awe-inspiring necessities for your Thanksgiving feast.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal



NOVEMBER RECIPES


Tea Smoked Duck with Cranberry-Orange Chutney by executive chef
Jesse Frost at Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa

Ingredients for the glaze:
1/2 cup molasses
2 tbsp soy sauce
1/4 rice wine vinegar
2 tbsp Chinese 5 spice powder
2 tbsp black sesame seeds

Place all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cool down.

Ingredients for the duck:
6 lb Peking duckling
3 tbsp grape seed oil
salt, pepper, minced ginger, and garlic

Bring water to a boil in a 2-4-quart pot. Submerge the duck very quickly by holding the neck and plunging it into the water. Do this a couple of times until the skin tightens. Place duck on a resting rack and allow drying. Stuff the duck with salt, pepper, minced garlic, and ginger before brushing on the glaze. Thoroughly brush on the glaze and allow the glaze to dry.

Smoke:
1 cup jasmine tea
1 cup raw jasmine rice
1 cup brown sugar
bay leaves

Start the coals of your barbeque grill. Place a small aluminum baking dish on top of the coals when they are glowing hot. Add the tea, rice, and sugar and let it smoke. The internal temperature of the grill should be around 300 degrees. Place the duck inside and cover. Do not open the cover for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, open the cover and brush the duck with grape seed oil. Do this every 30-40 minutes for 2 hours or until the duck reaches the desired doneness. Remove the duck and lacquer with the last of the glaze.

Ingredients for the cranberry-orange chutney:
1 lb fresh cranberries
1 jar orange preserves
1 cup sugar
star anise
2 cups fresh orange juice
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil

Combine all the ingredients in a heavy saucepot and cook until thick.



Blue Coral Bahia Cornbread Oyster Stuffing by corporate chef
Mark Adair and chef partner of the La Jolla location, Bill Gnam,
at Blue Coral Seafood & Spirits in La Jolla

Ingredients:
3 cups cornbread crumbled
3 cups white bread crumbs fresh and soft
1 cup onion diced
2 rib celery diced
3/4 cup green onion diced
1/4 cup poblano pepper seeded and diced
1 tsp garlic minced
4 tbsp butter softened
1/2 cup fresh cilantro finely chopped
1 pt shucked bahia falsa oyster reserve liquid
2 large eggs beaten
sea salt to taste
ground white pepper to taste

Preparation: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat two tablespoons of butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions, celery, garlic, poblano peppers, and green onion, and saute until translucent but not browned. Remove from heat and fold in cornbread and white bread crumbs and fresh cilantro. Moisten mixture with oyster liquor until moist but not soggy. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper. Gently fold in the oysters and beaten eggs. Pat the mixture into a large buttered casserole dish about two inches thick. Dot the top with remaining butter. Bake for about 45 minutes or until golden brown on top and center is set. Serve warm with Roasted Poultry or Pork dishes.

Note: Any freshly shucked oyster may be used in this preparation.



Crows Pass Spice Pumpkin Risotto by Vivace chef Bryant Wigger
at Four Seasons Resort Aviara

Ingredients:
1 medium onion chopped small
11/2 cup carnarolli risotto
1/2 cup white wine
4-5 cups chicken stock

Ingredients for the pumpkin puree:
1 small pumpkin
2 tbsp butter
4 leaf sage
4 tsp brown sugar
salt
pepper

Ingredients for the pesto:
pumpkin seeds
3 leaf sage
1 bunch basil
5 tbsp Parmesan cheese
1 clove garlic
1 cup olive oil

Ingredients for the mascarpone:
2 tbsp mascarpone
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
1 tsp fresh nutmeg

Preparation: Quarter the pumpkin and deseed with a spoon, saving the seeds for roasting. Take 3/4 of the pumpkin and place in a pan with the skin side down. Add 2 cups water to the bottom of the pan. Inside the pumpkin divide up the brown sugar, butter, and sage, cover with aluminum foil, and bake at 350 degrees for 11/2 hours or until soft. Scrape out the pumpkin and puree in a blender until smooth adding some water if needed.

For the risotto, put the olive oil in the saucepan, set over medium heat ant cook the onions until translucent. Add the rice and cook for about 2 minutes or until the rice starts to brown. Ladle in warm chicken stock, slowly frequently stirring and not letting the rice stick to the bottom of the pan. Continue for about 15-20 minutes or until done. Add 1 cup of the pumpkin puree, 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, and 2 tbsp butter, and season with salt and pepper.

For the nutmeg mascarpone, whip the cream, mascarpone, and nutmeg together until fluffy and firm.

For the pesto, take the pumpkin seeds and roast in the oven with olive oil, salt, and pepper at 350 degrees for 10 minutes or until toasted. Puree in the blender with the garlic, sage, basil, Parmesan cheese, and garlic until smooth.

Other ideas for garnish include gingersnap or amaretto cookies broken on top.

Blue Coral Bahia Cornbread Oyster Stuffing
by corporate chef Mark Adair and chef partner
of the La Jolla location, Bill Gnam, at Blue Coral
Seafood & Spirits in La Jolla

Roasted Lobster Baked Potato by
executive chef Jeff Jackson at
The Lodge at Torrey Pines
Crows Pass Spice Pumpkin Risotto
by Vivace chef Bryant Wigger at
Four Seasons Resort Aviara
When In Rome — La Cucina Italiana
With a legacy of excellence for nearly 25 years, When in Rome continues to emanate charm, hospitality, and character, while offering luxurious Italian cuisine.

The main dining room is bathed in a rosy glow of candlelight amidst extravagant touches of white linen, fresh flowers, and a warm fireplace. An outdoor lounge adjacent to an organic garden will make you feel like you are relaxing in a friend’s Italian villa.

Executive chef Tyler Burnley has a special flair for using seasonal produce in unique combinations within a classical recipe. With a menu that is always evolving, he continues to maintain an unwavering commitment to quality, consistency, and innovation offering homemade pastas, traditional Italian salads, fresh fish, and flavorful meats. "I am contributing to an ongoing legacy that owners Joe and Rosemary Ragone started 25 years ago," says Burnley. "Rosemary taught me everything I know."

If you’re interested in branching out from black olives in a can or those boring green martini olives, start with the Mixed Artisan Olives in extra virgin olive oil and vinaigrette marinade. Enjoy with warm homemade bread and an order of the Burrata Salad. The pulled Burrata cheese is soft, buttery, and delicately textured, paired with local Carlsbad heirloom tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.

A popular vegetarian option is the Homemade Manicotti, where thin semolina crepes are filled with a melt-in-your-mouth mixture of fresh ricotta cheese, mozzarella, Parmesan, béchamel, and baby spinach, all covered in pomodoro sauce. This classic dish boasts the scent and essence of nutmeg adding a spiced sweetness, balanced by a zesty tang from the spinach.

The homemade Fusilli Vodka consists of a sensational mixture of short curly noodles cooked al dente with a smoky enhancement of crisped-to-order pancetta pieces, caramelized sliced shallots, blended plum tomatoes, heavy cream, parsley, vodka, and Parmesan and pecorino cheeses. Vodka and tomatoes are a great combination, making this dish a gourmet standout.

A heavier, warmer dish that feels off-limits during the summer months is the Pasta Fasul, which tastes like home cooking. A light tomato broth simmered with tender onions, garlic, diced tomatoes, a bit of prosciutto, and Italian seasonings are combined with white beans and tiny macaroni noodles resulting in a thick and hearty soup. Top with fresh Parmesan cheese and you’ve experienced an Italian delicacy you just might crave forever.

A perennial Italian favorite is veal cutlet, a relatively lean cut of meat. The Veal Lombata Milanese is a 14-ounce prime center-cut veal rib chop coated in seasoned breadcrumbs and sautéed, thus sealing in the meat’s flavor and ensuring tenderness. Succulent pieces of long, narrow, deep green sorrel leaves placed alongside add a tangy, lemony flavor. The finishing touch of shaved fennel provides a subtle and clean taste.

Chicken Cacciatore (meaning hunter’s style), is a traditional Italian dish made a variety of different ways all over Italy. Fitting to its name, this dish is a hunter’s solace, especially during colder months. The Pollo Cacciatore of free-range half chicken braised and simmered with 12-year-aged sherry vinegar, a generous amount of toasted garlic, rosemary, sage, thyme, and pepperoncino is plenty enough to share.

I favor fresh fruit for dessert or perhaps anything that says fruit "crisp" on the menu. The warm Seasonal Fruit Crisp is original and diverse combining blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, and plums. Not too sweet and not too tart, it is light and refreshing. I didn’t mind the added calories of the cold and creamy vanilla gelato melting on top — the icing on the cake, I mean crisp. (760/944-1771,
www.wheninromerestaurant.com)
— Maria Desiderata Montana,
photography by Vincent Knakal


A Few Words With
Chef Tyler Burnley

Style of Cooking: New Italian

Special motto: Salt, pepper, and patience!

Favorite kitchen tool: Butter paper.

Advice to future chefs: If it’s not something you’d serve your mom, don’t send it out.

Spice you couldn’t live without: Star anise.

Desired travel destination: Deserted island in the South Pacific.

If you could open up a restaurant in any city, where would it be? Newport, RI.

Any Food Network mentors? Absolutely not.

Where do you see yourself in ten years? Married, five kids, small and very casual restaurant.

If you weren’t a chef what would you be?
UPS man.

 


© 2007 Rocket Publishing Company, Inc.    760.942.2330     P.O. Box 676130, Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067