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Well Suited
Finely tailored, hand-sewn suits have become something of an obsession among men who consider personal style a virtue. Not since the "power suit sensibility" of the ’80s became politically incorrect has there been such a profound interest in clothing decidedly a cut above.
Increasingly, clothing designers and manufacturers have been turning out their own interpretations of the "ultimate" suit regardless of the cost or time necessary to complete the handwork, finishing, and details that go into the final garment. For this fall, the news in tailored clothing is off-the-rack suits that embody the look, fit, and quality detailing usually found only in custom tailoring. Whether single- or double-breasted, the best of these suits offer balance and finesse, as if the clothing was cut to the wearer’s measurements.
Invariably soft rather than stiff, a result of luxurious fabrics made of the finest-spun lightweight and tropical wools, cashmere, and alpaca, this is hand-crafted clothing that truly represents the shape of things to come in classic men’s fashion: the enduring look of quality and individuality; a custom-made look at the price of ready-made. "It’s all about the fabric," says Maggie Bobileff, owner of Mister B at the Ranch. "The luxurious wools and lightweight cashmere make these high end suits much different, more elegant. Once a man experiences the comfortable fit along with the hand stitching along the collar and the inside linings, he’ll never go back to a standard suit again."
There is no denying the benefits of a suit sewn by hand, even if the handwork is minimal. Hand sewing allows the clothing to mold to the body, affording the wearer a distinctly individual style. Shaping details such as a suppressed waist, fuller, well-draped leg, sculpted chest, and roped or pleated shoulder, make for a suit that looks as though it was custom made. Tailoring details such as working buttonholes, button-through flies (as opposed to zippers), functional loops and tabs, etcetera, only serve to underscore the uniqueness of the clothing, making it that much more special.
For decades, certain clothing manufacturers such as Rome-based Brioni and Oxxford Clothes of Chicago have been producing off-the-rack tailored clothing made almost completely by hand. More recently, Italian clothing lines like Ermenegildo Zegna, Kiton, Giorgio Armani, and Pal Zileri have added special collections that go beyond their already top-of-the-line collections.
At Jhane Barnes, the designer has lifted her tailored clothing to new quality heights by adding a super soft, natural canvas front, working buttonholes, and more hand stitching throughout. "There is much more attention to detail in the suits now," says Barnes. "The super soft canvas adds comfort and drape while still maintaining great shape. And our fabrics, some of which I design myself, all come from Biella in Northern Italy, where we buy the best pure wools and fine worsteds. All this quality has been key to our success."
This fall, the most sophisticated suits feature a myriad of quiet patterns such as pin and track stripes, in either off-white or colored striping, faint tonal plaids, or the finest of checks. For both business and dressier occasions, dark shades of navy, charcoal gray, and deep tobacco are most important, and look particularly elegant paired with crisp white shirts and subtly patterned neckwear with a hint of sheen.
Ultimately, for any man experienced in the complexities, frustrations, and tedious fittings associated with having clothing custom made, the idea of achieving the same style and quality in a ready-made garment is great news. Indeed, this may be the perfect time to get reacquainted with your local clothier or haberdasher. It will make for a fitting reunion, so to speak. — Ralph DiGennaro, photography by Paul Body, grooming by Paula Mayer, models from San Diego Model Management
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Closet Cases: Top Trends For Fall 2006
You almost need a geometry lesson to figure out this fall’s fashions. Big changes strutted down the runway this season — shapes have definitely shifted. Silhouettes are often big on top — say a slouchy sweater — and long and leggy on the bottom — think skinny jeans or mini skirts. Strong shoulders are in, as the fashion experts like to say. Even tights and leggings are making a comeback, or should we say flashback? The trend is reminiscent of Flashdance, that iconic ’80s hit starring Jennifer Beals with the big, frizzy hair and even bigger sweaters. Don’t like that look? Just reverse it: pouffy skirts or wide-legged trousers with trimmer tops. In case we hadn’t mentioned, the bubble is back. The point of these new proportions is to balance the looks. In other words, if you wear something lean on top, wear a bottom with more volume. If you’re wearing something narrow on the bottom, wear a big top (you can look like a circus if you’re not careful). And then there’s the mini quandary. Sky-high skirts are taking off again much to the chagrin of women of a certain age who remember this look the first (and second and third) time around. How high should you go? It’s a matter of personal style, and perhaps a bit of courage. But great gams certainly give you a leg up on the trend. If you’re more modest, better leave this look to your daughter.
Even if you could afford to get a whole new wardrobe this fall, you don’t need to. Just take a look at the top trends for the season, and decide what suits you. Have fun with fashion, but don’t be a fashion victim. Make it your own. And wear it well.
Red skull scarf and Claudia Ciuti red suede heels from Matti D in Del Mar; Stila lip glaze in cranberry, Lippman Collection nail color in My Old Flame, and Kevyn Aucoin lipstick in Poppia — all from Do’s & Lipstick in Solana Beach; red leather clutch purse by Hobo International from The M Collection in Leucadia
Seeing Red
Red is the color of passion — and fashion — this fall. There’s nothing like red to rev up a closet full of basics. Ruby slippers or a lipstick red handbag can make the heart race — and provide a jolt of color. No longer just for airline gate agents and TV anchor women, red is red hot.
Left: Iisli wool ribbed leggings in dark heather and black from Matti D in Del Mar, and Rachel Pally black capri leggings from What A Girl Wants in Carlsbad
Right: Skinny leg Mu Jeans from Icons in Encinitas, J & Company skinny jeans with embellished pockets from Sparrow Clothing, and Red Engine black straight leg skinny jeans from Ronda’s Closet in Carmel Valley
Legwork
Leggings and tights are back, often teamed with floaty tunics and big, cozy sweaters, or mini skirts if you’ve got the legs. Or go more modest — team a dress, a longer tunic, or top with tall boots and tights. Keep in mind that patterned tights will make your legs look heavier, and it’s best to match the shoes to the tights for a longer line.
The Skinny
Whether it’s jeans or pants, the look is lean and leggy. According to Neiman Marcus, slim cuts are a must to achieve this season’s dramatic silhouettes. Unfortunately, lean jeans aren’t the kindest cut for more ample figures ("Honey, do my thighs look big?"), and it’s hard to wriggle in and out of some of these styles. So choose wisely.
Layering
Pile it on for fall, say the fashionistas. But come on, do they live in San Diego? Sure, layering legwarmers, chunky cardigans, and scarves may be cozy on the East Coast. Here in the West, the look is trickier to pull off. (Hello, hot flashes). So the key is to keep the layers light. But when the temperatures drop — yes, even in San Diego — layering is a stylish way to keep warm.
Boots: The Long And The Short Of It
These aren’t your granny’s boots. There’s some serious sexiness going on with this season’s ubiquitous ankle booties, all done up in sensuous suede, patent leather, and biker chains. Killer heels — or kitten — the choice is yours. Team booties with pants, jeans, or for the more adventurous, tights and skirts (mini or modest). If short boots aren’t for you, no matter, tall boots are a major trend, whether platform or flat, suede or leather.
Wild Kingdom
It’s a jungle out there. Animal prints have been stalking the runways this season — don’t call it a catwalk for nothing — and we’re frankly wild about the trend. A leopard print bag or boot is the perfect way to add some animal attraction to your outfit. Or how about zebra stripes on a sweater or skirt? Just don’t wear this look head-to-toe or you, too, could wind up in the zoo.
Shine On
We’re taking a shine to metallics this season, and for good reason. These shimmery, glimmery coats, dresses, and shoes are not only light catching, but eye catching. So glow, girl, glow.
It’s A Cinch
Fashion insiders say dressing is a cinch with a fabulous belt. Whether wide or narrow, belts are gussied up with grommets and crystals, animal prints, or chains. This fall there’s no excuse for a boring belt.
Left: Tan Western-inspired leather belt from Ronda’s Closet in Carmel Valley, Phi black suede skinny belt with gold lock accent from Dera Kayna in Del Mar, chocolate suede belt with gold animal skin sheen from Nicole Miller in La Jolla, Phi black suede wide belt with gold buckle accent from Dera Kayna in Del Mar, and tan leather belt with white and gold buckle from Ronda’s Closet in Carmel Valley
Right: Carla Mancini chocolate suede front pocket handbag from Madison Leather & Luggage in Flower Hill Promenade, Hobo International black handbag with stud detailing from The M Collection in Leucadia, Perlina olive satchel with chain detail from The Shoe Lounge in Fairbanks Ranch, and Onna Erhlich crocodile and leather hobo in mustard from Madison Leather & Luggage
In The Bag
This season big, slouchy handbags are back in distressed leather or soft suede, embellished with studs, tassels, and chains. Hobo styles look rich again. And you just can’t miss with black accented with gold, a classic combo updated for fall.
Chain Gang
Chunky chains — and lots of layered links — are the gold standard this fall. So go bold with gold. And pile it on! — Andrea Naversen, photography by Vincent Knakal
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Jack is wearing a three-piece lightweight wool houndstooth suit, a dress shirt with lavender stripes, a lavender striped tie (all by Pal Zileri) and black leather Aldo Brue shoes — all from Mister B at the Ranch in Encinitas
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Left: Scott is wearing an Ermenegildo Zegna blue chalk stripe flannel suit with a blue check shirt and a purple dot tie — all from Ermenegildo Zegna at South Coast Plaza
Right: Jack is wearing a Pal Zileri lightweight wool pinstripe suit and a red and mustard striped shirt with a Hugo Boss crimson tie — all from Mister B at the Ranch in Encinitas
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Left: Scott is wearing an olive-hued viscose suit, a putty color checked shirt, and a turquoise and mustard checked tie — all by Jhane Barnes and from Peaches en Regalia in Del Mar Plaza
Right: Jack is wearing a lightweight wool blue striped Jhane Barnes suit, a blue shirt by The Rodin Collection, and a Martin Wong blue, black and grey graphic tie — all from Peaches en Regalia in Del Mar Plaza
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Layering
Peter Som grey cashmere sweater, Reyes shirt with ruffle detail and neck ties, and Alessandro Dell’Acqua wide lace belt — all from Dera Kayna in Del Mar; Iisli black pleated mini skirt from Matti D in Del Mar and Rachel Pally black capri leggings from What A Girl Wants in Carlsbad
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