MAIN STREET SAN DIEGO
Fourth And Fifth Avenues

It may not be able to boast a Tiffany’s or Trump Tower — yet — but Fifth Avenue in downtown San Diego is starting to give its New York namesake a run for its money. In fact, the street has become such a prestigious address and popular destination, its appeal has actually spread to next-door-neighbor Fourth Avenue as well.

"The two streets are booming," agrees Dan Flores of the Gaslamp Quarter Association. "With a couple of hundred stores and restaurants between them, they’ve helped the neighborhood take on the status of a South Beach or Soho."

Indeed, the explosive growth of these streets has given out-of-towners yet another reason to visit San Diego. According to Sal Giametta of the San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau, in addition to planning beach vacations here and taking advantage of attractions like the zoo and Sea World, more people are flocking to America’s Finest City solely to spend a couple of days downtown.

"Everyone already knows about our incredible weather, but now, like other grown-up cities such as San Francisco and Chicago, we have an urban experience to offer as well," Giametta says. "Fourth and Fifth Avenues comprise the core of the Gaslamp Quarter, and they’re attracting a whole new group of visitors by providing a unique mosaic of what San Diego is, was, and will be."

As they approach this vibrant area, guests walk under the arch at Fifth Avenue and Harbor Drive, which welcomes them to the "Gaslamp Quarter: Historic Heart of San Diego." Stretching from the east side of Fourth Avenue to the west side of Sixth Avenue and covering the eight blocks from Broadway to Harbor Drive, the 16 square blocks of the Gaslamp Quarter have a rich history filled with a host of colorful characters.

Arguably the most prominent player — the man considered the founder of San Diego — was Alonzo Horton, known affectionately as Father Horton for his role in the development of the city. Born in Connecticut, Horton headed west during the Gold Rush to seek his fortune. In 1867, after learning of the need to develop ports along the Pacific Coast, he landed in San Diego, which he believed could, in theory, become the first major port for ships sailing up the West Coast.

Although he was originally unimpressed, stating, "Never in the whole world can you have a city here," Horton nonetheless bought 960 acres of land by the bay and mapped out 300- by 200-foot blocks — shorter than those in most cities — to allow for more valuable corner lots.

Horton designed Fifth Avenue to be the main street of his new city, and he built a pier at the foot of the street to make it easier for prospective land buyers as well as ships from all over the world to come and do business in San Diego.

"He would be thrilled to see Fifth Avenue today," says Tracy J. Silberman, executive director of the Gaslamp Quarter Historical Foundation (GQHF). "He wanted it to be the hub of activity, and there’s no question it’s remained true to his vision."

Over a century later, Horton’s vision isn’t all that remains. With more than 90 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Buildings, the Gaslamp Quarter is one of the largest and most architecturally significant historic districts in the country. Every Saturday morning, the GQHF — which just received a grant from Save Our History and The History Channel to expand its impressive schoolchildren’s program — offers walking tours of the area, starting from its headquarters in the 150-year-old William Heath Davis House.

One of the features that makes Fourth and Fifth Avenues so special is the fact that you can walk down the streets and see the House of Blues rockin’ in the old F.W. Woolworth Building and find a totally modern brand such as Volcom (whose philosophy is "Youth Against Establishment") selling skateboarding apparel in a historic space like the Yuma Building, which was built in 1882 and was one of downtown’s first brick structures. "Because we have so many historic buildings and none of them can offer store space larger than 10,000 square feet, we’ve actually been able to attract some great, eclectic retailers who think it’s cool to be housed in a building that has such character," says Flores. "It’s given the neighborhood real flavor and has enabled us to offer a more unique shopping experience."

The neighborhood’s historic character is evident in the beautiful U.S. Grant Hotel, one of the few buildings that, 96 years later, continues to serve its original function. Developed by Alonzo Horton in 1870, the city’s first luxury hotel was dubbed Horton House. In 1905, the wife of former president Ulysses S. Grant bought the property, which her son transformed into the grand landmark hotel named after his father.

Over the past 20 months, the hotel has undergone a meticulous $56 million historic restoration and renovation. When it opens later this month, with its grand entry returned to its original Fourth Avenue location, the hotel is expected to resume its unofficial position as the gateway to the Gaslamp.

Despite its icon status, though, "the restored US Grant is not your grandmother’s historic urban hotel," explains Mark J. Dibella, director of sales and marketing. "There is nothing prissy or stuffy about her. The US Grant is majestic, yes, but she’s bohemian at heart. She’s not just to be admired — she’s to be enjoyed to the hilt by the community as well as visitors."

This focus on community has definitely helped Fourth and Fifth Avenues overcome their seedy reputations to become the Mecca they are today. "Twenty years ago Fifth Avenue was skid row and Fourth Avenue was even worse," remembers Mike Mitchell, a third-generation native of San Diego, and general manager/operating partner of the award-winning restaurant, The Oceanaire Seafood Room. "The transformation has been nothing short of spectacular, and is a success story worth celebrating."

Mitchell believes the real turning point for the area was the development of luxury condominium complexes, and he credits the revitalization of Fifth Avenue with helping people see the potential of living downtown. "Ingrid Croce was probably the real pioneer, opening Croce’s on Fifth and C, and bringing good food and high-quality entertainment to the street," he says. "You can’t have a real neighborhood unless people live there, and the evolution of Fifth Avenue is what made that possible."

David Zampatti, who is opening Bondi, an authentic Australian restaurant, on Fifth Avenue this fall, agrees. "The choice for our first location was critical, and we spent years researching San Diego. We never wavered from our feeling that Fifth Avenue was where we wanted to be."

According to Zampatti, the street attracts a phenomenal combination of markets, including the Convention Center and Petco Park. "but the real clincher was that we just have an awful lot of faith in downtown San Diego as a desirable place to live. We know it’s going to be a really solid local community."

That’s also the reason Hard Rock chose Fifth Avenue as the site for its first condo-hotel. "The location embodies a lifestyle that represents what Hard Rock is about," says Trevor Horwell, chief hotels officer. Obviously, San Diegans are eager to "live life behind the velvet ropes," as the first phase of 300 suites sold out in nine hours.

This influx of residents hasn’t gone unnoticed by old-timers like Dick’s Last Resort, a local favorite since 1991. "We’ve always had a strong draw from the Convention Center, and of course the ballpark helped us tremendously," says Brenda Crouch of Dick’s Last Resort. "Now, with all the housing going up, we’re looking forward to serving a new group of regulars."

Business has grown so steadily for Café Sevilla, which originally opened as a small tapas bar in 1987, that CEO Eric Van Den Haute admits he may need to look for a new space. "We really need to expand and double in size," he says. "We’d like to stay in the area, though, so we don’t lose our convention regulars who we look forward to seeing every couple of years."

Flores is thrilled with the evolution of Fourth and Fifth Avenues, even the blocks that go past the technical boundaries of the Gaslamp Quarter. He explains that each has its own personality — Fifth is the bustling main thoroughfare while Fourth offers a quieter, more relaxed experience and more space for walking. Horton Plaza, the five-level mall on Fourth Avenue featuring more than 200 stores and restaurants, is, according to Flores, "essentially its own neighborhood."

Surprisingly, the Gaslamp Quarter has just about the same retail footage as the famous mall. But while Horton Plaza has the chain stores, Fourth and Fifth Avenues have begun to catch the attention of national brands, bringing big names like Quiksilver, Puma, Oakley, and Adidas to the streets.

As the wealth of attractions on Fourth and Fifth Avenues continues to lure visitors and residents, Flores predicts neighboring streets will benefit from the overflow. "People underestimate Sixth Avenue," he says. "But with eight hotels opening there, just wait and see." — Lois Alter Mark, photography by Vincent Knakal and courtesy of the San Diego Historical Society