Brian Malarkey: Top Of His Game
Named 2007’s Best Chef in San Diego, executive chef Brian Malarkey clearly has a competitive side. Not only did he show off his talents on Bravo’s Top Chef: Miami, but Malarkey’s high-energy personality makes him a winning whirlwind in the kitchen at The Oceanaire Seafood Room in downtown’s Gaslamp Quarter. We spoke with Malarkey while he was still filming Top Chef.

Birthplace: Portland, Oregon.

Culinary Education: Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon.

If you could open up a restaurant in any city, where would it be? Don’t get me wrong, I’m a true blue Southern California guy. But someday, I’d like to go back to Portland where my family lives. I would like to open a restaurant and call it Teta, after my classy grandmother.

I’ve heard your favorite TV show is Top Chef. Did you ever think you would be a finalist? When the show first came out, I was intrigued that cooking was a sport. I thought it would be a lot of fun. A scout came to San Diego and talked to a bunch of us chefs. I decided to audition, and out of the blue they called me for Top Chef 3. I was scared and almost backed out. I didn’t want to be made fun of on national TV.

Why do you think you were voted Best Chef 2007 at Oceanaire? It’s the accumulation of a great staff, concept, and a ton of passion.

How do you handle the criticism during the competition? I took the criticism as some information and used it as a learning life experience. It was "a grain of salt thing" to pick on me; the drama of the show. The judges like to focus on the bad because the final part is always about who’s getting kicked off.

Do you think you are the best chef on the show? There are some really great chefs. I’m learning a lot from the talent around me.

Have things changed for you after appearing on Top Chef? It’s cute that people recognize me. I enjoy it. It’s definitely a surreal and really interesting phenomenon. The restaurant has become even busier.

Favorite movie? That’s easy. I love horse racing so my favorite movie is Seabiscuit. I’ll actually watch it over and over, rooting for Seabscuit even though I already know the ending.

Desired travel destination? Well, the entire world of course, but Thailand is high on my list right now.

What’s your philosophy on using fats and butter? The more the better. People in France and Italy eat a ton of rich buttery food. They go for a walk; they don’t sit on the couch and watch MTV after dinner. There’s nothing better than butter. I love butter, bacon, and fat, and I’m skinny. Everything in moderation.

Do you want to end up with your own television show? That would be ideal. I would love to have a travel/lifestyle type show.

Favorite music? I’m into reggae and Johnny Cash.

Favorite wine? Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.

If you weren’t a chef what would you be? An actor.

Favorite food you like to cook for yourself? Artichokes and a great big rib eye steak.

Does being around food all the time make it hard to stay in good shape? No. I do a lot of surfing and jogging.

What’s with the hats you are stylin’ in? I like hats because it’s stylish and takes me back to yesteryear. I’m a huge fan of Frank Sinatra and it’s cool and very dapper to wear a nice hat. Besides, it’s a great fit for our Oceanaire restaurant with that 1940s supper club-type theme.

Do you think you will win Top Chef? I wouldn’t have done the show unless I thought I had a good chance of winning.

How do you feel being in front of the television camera? The camera fades away and I forget it’s there. I just try to avoid running into them.

Favorite kitchen tool and why? A very sharp knife, I need it!

How many times would you say you wash your hands in the kitchen? Thirty times a day.

What do you dislike most about being a chef? The long hours.

Are you obsessive about anything in the kitchen? Yes, a mood. I always want the energy to be totally upbeat. You can feel the spirit of the person cooking your food.

Advice for up and coming chefs? Just know it’s a huge amount of hours, holidays and late nights. It’s very demanding and I don’t really know if I would recommend it to anyone.

Does being in the kitchen ever make you nervous? No. Cooking is not life or death. We’re having a good meal for fun. It’s supposed to be fun — not scary.

Philosophy on organic? Organic is totally great, but it should be made mainstream. All foods should be harvested in a safe fashion. Everything should be organic.

What’s your favorite dish to make and why? I take pride in all my dishes.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years? Ideally, I’ll have that cooking show showing the world recipes, locations, techniques, flavors, and style. It is limitless!

What’s your motto? Love, peace, and happiness is a motto I came up with while backpacking in Europe with my son. Try it, it works for everything.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal

Musical Marriage
Armistead Burwell Smith IV and his wife, Rachel Ehlin, live and work in an airy concrete loft in Little Italy. Smith — known as Zach to friends and family — is a founding member of the pop band Pinback, one of San Diego’s most successful musical exports. Ehlin, a willowy, stylish East Coast girl, used to design a line of leather-and-enamel handbags called Westehlin and currently helps manage her husband’s business affairs.

Their apartment belongs to the multi-unit Essex Lofts. The building resembles an aircraft carrier and was designed by Smith’s architect-developer father Ted, who is known for his innovative and affordable urban creations. Ehlin has decorated their home with a professional’s sharp eye; she collects ceramics by Eva Zeisel, as well as pieces from Kiln Enamel, a Brooklyn-based company founded by her twin sister and brother-in-law. The back part of the couple’s home, layered with soundproofing, serves as Smith’s recording studio.

"I have band guys coming in and out of my house all the time," says Ehlin with a laugh, "especially when they’re getting ready to go on tour. It’s hard to keep things tidy." Smith leaves for weeks at a time to tour the U.S. and abroad, but jet-setting Ehlin joins him whenever she can.

Pinback recently released the album Autumn of the Seraphs, a follow up to 2004’s Summer in Abaddon. The band heads out on the road this fall, with an October 27 stop at the Belly Up.
— AnnaMaria Stephens, photo by Vincent Knakal

 


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