Marinated Kobe Beef Tataki with Red Onion, Ponzu and Hijiki by executive
chef Damon Gordon at The Ivy Hotel’s Quarter Kitchen downtown

Behind The Scenes
Adding and refining recipes is no laughing matter. Chefs begin their day spending countless hours at fresh farms and specialty markets poking and prodding for the perfect vegetable or cut of meat. Some even climb ladders reaching for that perfect orange, or fish off the Sea of Cortez for the freshest catch of the day. After careful transport to their kitchen, ingredients are whisked, stirred, or rubbed in a tireless effort to create an unsurpassed signature dish that will overwhelm the palate. But really, there is so much more than meets the eye when it comes to creating a meal that will meet the standard of being superb. Here, a few stunning downtown restaurants share their ingeniously fashioned edibles.
— Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal



OCTOBER RECIPES


Marinated Kobe Beef Tataki with Red Onion, Ponzu and Hijiki by executive chef
Damon Gordon at The Ivy Hotel’s Quarter Kitchen downtown

Ingredients:
3 oz. Kobe beef
1/2 red onion finely sliced
2 oz. dried hijiki seaweed (available at Japanese markets)
1 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup yuzu (Japanese citrus)
1 spoon of diluted corn starch to thicken
picked cilantro

Preparation:
Lightly sear the Kobe beef on all sides.
Finely slice the onions and rehydrate the hijiki seaweed in water.
Next, make the ponzu by combining the soy sauce, yuzu, and diluted corn starch.
Slice the Kobe beef and marinate it in the ponzu with the red onions and hijiki for 10 minutes.
Arrange the sliced beef on a plate and top with the red onion and seaweed.
Spoon around the ponzu and garnish with picked cilantro.



Filetto al Mirtillo (Hand-Carved Filet Mignon topped with a Blueberry Sauce)
by chef Martin Gonzalez at Acqua al 2 downtown

Ingredients:
8 oz. filet mignon
1 oz. blueberry marmalade
6-8 oz. cherry wine
1 tsp. cream
1 tsp. butter
olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
flour

Preparation: In a small frying pan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-high heat. Coat the filet mignon in some flour and place it in the pan to seal the steak, cooking until the meat is light brown in color (or at the desired temperature).

Heat another frying pan over medium-high heat. Transfer the filet to the pan and add the cherry wine until the alcohol evaporates (approximately 2-3 minutes). Then add the blueberry marmalade, salt, and pepper to taste. When the sauce starts to reduce, add the cream, mix well, and wait for the sauce to thicken to a desired consistency (approximately 30-60 seconds).

Plate the filet and cover with the blueberry sauce. Serve warm.

Buon Appetito!



Colorado Rack of Lamb by executive chef Fabrice Hardel
at The Westgate Hotel downtown

Ingredients:
2 Colorado racks of lamb
Fleur de Sel sea salt to taste
black pepper to taste
Mosto olive oil
1 tbsp. fennel pollen
2 oz. white wine
10 oz. lamb stock
1 oz. butter
fresh rosemary
1 bunch lavender

1 lb. Maui onion
1 tbsp. grated garlic
1 heirloom tomato
1 green zucchini
4 baby eggplant
fresh thyme

2 oz. polenta
8 oz. chicken stock
3 oz. mascarpone
1 oz. grated Parmesan cheese
1 tbsp. black truffle oil

4 zucchini blossoms
4 oz. Humboldt Fog goat cheese
1 egg yolk
1 oz. panko breadcrumbs

Preparation for the bayaldi vegetables: Peel the onions and julienne them. Cook them over low heat with 2 tablespoons olive oil and the grated garlic for 1 hour until you have a nice dry onion jam. Season the onion jam to taste and put it in the cooler.
Cut the zucchini and the baby eggplant with a mandolin in thin slices and sear them in olive oil and the fresh thyme in a nonstick pan until they are almost cooked. Then season the vegetables and put them on a paper towel.
Cut the heirloom tomato into 8 thin slices.

Preparation for the rack of lamb: Preheat oven to 380 degrees. Cut the rack of lamb into 4 similar pieces. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and sear it in a hot pan with olive oil for 3 minutes and add the fresh rosemary. Put the pan with the lamb in the oven and cook it for 12 minutes on medium. Take the meat out, distribute the fennel pollen on the lamb, and cover it with aluminum foil and let it rest for 10 minutes. Then put the white wine in the hot pan, reduce until it is almost gone, and fill it up with brown lamb stock. Reduce to approximately 3 oz., take it aside, and stir the cold butter inside until you have a nice lamb jus.



Pesce Alle Erbe Aromatiche by chef de cuisine Colin MacLaggan
at Avenue 5 Restaurant & Bar downtown

Ingredients:
3 lb. tuna belly

Ingredients for the marinade:
10 leaves mint
10 leaves basil
30 sprigs parsley
10 leaves sage
1 tsp. rosemary
4 tbsp, capers
1 tbsp. oregano
1 red onion
1 tbsp. red wine vinegar
11/2 tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
salt and pepper

Preparation: Sear the tuna well with salt and cracked pepper.
Combine all marinade ingredients in food processor minus vinegar, juice, and oil to make a rough paste. Combine with liquids and pour over fish for 1 hour.

For the lemon thyme vinaigrette:
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
11/2 cup oil blend
1/2 minced red onion
1/4 cup picked thyme
salt and pepper

combine all

Filetto al Mirtillo (Hand-Carved Filet Mignon topped with a Blueberry Sauce) by chef Martin Gonzalez at Acqua al 2 downtown

Colorado Rack of Lamb by executive
chef Fabrice Hardel at The Westgate Hotel downtown
Pesce Alle Erbe Aromatiche by chef de cuisine Colin MacLaggan at Avenue 5 Restaurant & Bar downtown
Anthology — Culinary Opus
The new glamorous and chic Anthology, reminiscent of an elegantly converted brownstone, seduces diners with the magic and taste of yesterday’s supper club redefined. "It’s a great place for couples, families, even teenagers," states chef and James Beard Foundation award-winner Bradley Ogden."

Jazz, blues, soul, classic rock, R&B, and Latin acts perform as you dine, using the most sophisticated digital sound systems available. "I absolutely love the fact that fine dining and great music has never been put together on this scale in San Diego," states executive chef Jim Phillips, formerly of Pamplemousse Grille. "Not only that, I always wanted to be a symphony conductor, so being in the kitchen, creating special cuisine while listening to the music, is the best of both worlds."

There are three distinct levels with a view from every seat. The first floor has tables placed throughout with a corner bar and a show-stopping hand-beaded pearl chandelier. The second floor, with its cozy tables and booths, feels intimate and private. The top floor boasts a lovely bar with a fireplace and big screen TV, allowing for full concert enjoyment. An adjoining outdoor patio with fluffy pillows on wicker rattan gives guests a glimpse of downtown.

A continuing sushi boom is on the rise and Phillips takes full advantage of this concept with a unique presentation of the Ahi Tuna Tartare. The Ahi is pretty in pink, plump, and succulent. Tiny oval potato rounds that are lightly breaded and fried, better known as fennel croquettes, grace the sides. A dollop of Paddlefish caviar makes this the ultimate palate-tingling delight.

I have always thought of eggplant as an optimal vegetarian option. Crispy summer eggplant is sliced extremely thin, made into cutlets, and carefully breaded with Italian seasonings. After being precisely fried to an al dente consistency, the cutlets are placed atop a munificent amount of spicy tomato sauce that coats the bottom of a big bowl. The finishing touch is a nice portion of buffalo ricotta cheese, olive powder, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Don’t miss some downhome upscale picnic food with the Lightly Smoked Southern Fried Chicken, battered in a special seasoning that tastes of chicory and barbecue sauce. A side of corn pudding is heaven in a little bowl tasting of sweet and creamy chowder with an assortment of mixed vegetables. Phillips thought of everything with traditional accompaniments of crisp coleslaw and creamy potato salad.

The Grilled Colorado Lamb Chops are distinctively dressed with a fancy display of asiago cheese softly bubbling over the top. Idyllically caramelized on the outside and tender and juicy within, the chops are carefully nestled over a warm bed of homemade ricotta gnocchi. The addition of pea shoots and shaved asiago promotes further depth and character.

Move over king salmon, there’s a new fish in town. The Pan Roasted Sea Bass is caught fresh daily from the Sea of Cortez and offers a nice outer crust and a solid, flaky center. Baby artichokes are braised and wholly edible alongside. This culinary repertoire is completed with sautéed calamari and lemon white wine.

I love the concept of trying out the sweet life with a dessert sampler. The chilled Chocolate Custard is a smooth and decadent confection with a mousse-like texture. Enter a bittersweet chocolate brownie for a dense and chewy delight. My favorite — the two teeny cupcakes filled with cranberry, orange, and cinnamon spice — making everything nice.
(619/595-0300, www.anthologysd.com)
— Maria Desiderata Montana,
intro photo by Vincent Knakal


A Few Words With Chef Jim Phillips
And Chef Bradley Ogden

Style of Cooking: California Cuisine

Birthplace:
Bradley Ogden: Traverse City, Michigan.
Jim Phillips: San Francisco.

Desired Travel Destination:
BO: Hawaii. JP: Return to Australia.

Favorite cultural event: BO: Napa Wine & Food Festival. JP: Food and Wine Classic in Aspen.

Preferred wine: BO: California Cabernet.
JP: Old Bordeaux.

Spice you can’t live without:
BO: Black pepper. JP: Exotics — za’atar and
garam masala.

Favorite herb: BO: Basil.
JP: Lovage, aka chicken soup herb

Foreign films pick: BO: Cinema Paradiso.
JP: Anything French.

If you weren’t a chef what would you be?
BO: Professional golfer.
JP: Symphony conductor.

 


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