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Barbarella — Mediterranean Magic
Feel the intense rhythm of the La Jolla excitement where Italian cuisine, art, and culture come to life in a very special place reminiscent of an Italian villa and a French bistro combined.
I felt like I was visiting a friend’s home at this charming sidewalk eatery covered with lush flowering plants. Greeted with a warm welcome at the front door, I relished the aroma of fresh baked bread coming from a unique brick oven colorfully decorated with hand-painted tiles from well-known French painter and sculptor Niki de Saint-Phalle. "Niki was a wonderful friend and inspiration to me and I love her artwork," says chef/owner and restaurateur Barbara Beltaire. "I have select pieces on display here for everyone to enjoy."
With a large collection of regulars frequenting the place since its opening in 2000, the popularity of Beltaire’s home away from home — aside from the beautiful food and atmosphere — is the personal interaction she and her staff have with her guests. On select evenings she can be seen stopping at every table to say hello and even handing out blankets to soften the nightly chill. "I’ve seen children grow up here and people share their life stories," says Beltaire. "Life is really fun for me. I’m really lucky and I believe that none of us are entitled to have a bad day."
The menu changes daily, nonetheless boasting made-from-scratch gourmet Italian specialties at extremely reasonable prices. Since Barbarella is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, you can start your eating journey early in the day. A very nice and low-fat option for that first morning meal, referred to on the menu as an "Eggstravaganza," is the frittata made with egg whites paired with Valdivia pear tomatoes, feta, mozzarella, and garden basil, or the low-carb Asparagus Milanese consisting of a sunny-side up organic egg, brown butter, and shaved Parmigiano.
Beltaire has a "garden to table" philosophy via fresh and organic fruits and vegetables from local Chino Farms. A prime example (also a lunchtime favorite) is three individually grilled slices of bruschetta rubbed with garlic, drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil, and topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella. The toppings vary but Beltaire read my Italian mind with unique toppings of sautéed broccoli raab (rappini), fava beans, and crisp asparagus.
Beltaire’s pure and straightforward Italian philosophy of simple and basic ingredients meant for sharing with family and friends is evident in the Fritti appetizer. Rock shrimp and zucchini blossoms are dipped in a silky tempura batter and lightly fried. Dip each warm piece into a creamy garlic-lemon aioli sauce with fresh capers for a melt-in-your-mouth tangy delight. Pair with a specialty cocktail made with Grey Goose L’Orange and fresh squeezed blood orange juice.
A special catch from the sea is featured nightly and the whole grilled striped sea bass from Baja brought in that morning was unlike anything I have ever had. Served with the head and the tail and filleted tableside, its crispy outer skin and tender and flaky meat reigns supreme in presentation and taste. If that wasn’t enough, my partner had the Fettuccine Canestrelli, and after one bite, I stole it from him. The homemade noodles are cooked perfectly al dente and mixed with seared scallops, spinach, garlic, chili flakes, and shrimp butter sauce. It is so delicious that I am hoping Beltaire will give me the recipe.
For dessert, the assorted berries with peaches in the Fruit Cobbler offers a natural sweetness underneath a warm crispy topping tasting of brown sugar and cinnamon, topped with vanilla bean ice cream. And the warm Valrhona chocolate cake oozing with melted dark chocolate ganache with a generous helping of cold and silky banana ice-cream — need I say more? This is my new home away from home!
In participation with the going green movement, specially decorated glass bottles are refilled with Palomar Mountain Spring Water. Bottles can be purchased at the restaurant for $1 each. (858/454-7373) — Maria Desiderata Montana, photography by Vincent Knakal
A Few Words With Chef/Owner
Barbara Beltaire
Education and experience: Chef’s Diploma from Madeleine Kamman but I have been truly blessed to have worked with great people who taught me the craft.
Favorite herb: Basil.
Guilty pleasure: Valrhona dark chocolate.
Desired travel destination: Taj Mahal in India.
Favorite kitchen tool: My tastebuds!
Philosophy on organic: I only use the very best ingredients I can get my hands on.
Favorite music: I’m definitely a Motown girl!
Pet peeve in the kitchen: Absolutely nothing. I have a great staff and my chefs are like angels!
If you weren’t a chef what would you do?
I love taking care of old people.
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